Finishing question

[bases-loaded@juno.com]

Ric -

I had a feeling we would end up here!  What you are describing, I think,
when you mention "fill the pores" and "padding shellac" is the agreed
upon (mostly) superior finish ever invented - FRENCH POLISHING.  I am not
an expert practitioner of this historic finish, but I have tried it a few
times on projects MUCH smaller than pianos!   I will not attempt to
explain the details, but the "outline" includes first filling the pores
with a mixture of pumice and shellac, all rubbed into the wood rather
laboriously with a special pad.  Once you have seen a true french
polished surface, you will know what I mean by it being superior to
anything else you have ever seen.  

I highly suggest you check out two books that explain this extremely
well:
 - Hand Applied Finishes by Jeff Jewitt (available thru Fine Woodworking
and directly from him-let me know if you want the #)

-Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner (available in most
bookstores)

Another possibility is to make your own oil finish that is fuller bodied.
 Somewhere I have a recipe that I used for numerous pianos some 20 years
ago when I did "low tech" finishes.  I will try to hunt it down - was
turpentine, boiled linseed oil, and marine varnish, in app. equal parts
as I recall.  WAY superior to tung oil in build.  Also, Jeff Jewitt has a
finish supply business for hand applied finishes, and I'm sure he has one
or two "wiping varnishes" that build better than tung oil.  His # is
440-582-8929, "Homestead Finishing Products".

Mark Potter
bases-loaded@juno.com 

On Fri, 8 Oct 1999 00:24:25 -0500 "Richard Moody" <remoody@easnet.net>
writes:
> Mark, 
> 	Thanks for the info.  I have been using oil over unfilled 
> stripped, sanded and
> stained wood with mixed results. I finally have gotten the desired 
> sheen by using
> 4-6 coats of oil (tung) instead of 2 or three.  On Mahog,  pores are 
> the problem.  I
> will try the glue sizing.  since I am trying to keep low tech, 
> spraying is not
> feasible. However I have heard of "padding"  shellac, or "padding on 
> shellac". I
> wonder if anyone knows about this? Is it possible to mix shellac 
> with some kind of
> oil and rub it on like oil? For large areas of course---ric 
> 
> ----------
> > From: bases-loaded@juno.com
> > To: pianotech@ptg.org
> > Subject: Re: Finishing question
> > Date: Thursday, October 07, 1999 7:37 PM
> > 
> > Ric -
> > 
> > I have glue sized wood before refinishing many times.  I mix app. 
> 8 parts
> > warm water with 1 part hide glue and sponge on the stripped, 
> cleaned, and
> > sanded wood, then wipe off the excess.  Let it dry for a few hours 
> or
> > overnight.  As Charles noted, this raises the grain, is easily 
> sanded
> > smooth, and very little grain raising takes place in subsequent 
> finish
> > layers.  An added benefit is that it takes dyes extremely well, 
> and can
> > be very useful in allowing for an "even" absorption of color.  I 
> have
> > always used shellac as a sealer coat over this, spraying it in 1 
> lb.
> > cuts, "wash coats", if you will.  I have never experienced any 
> trouble
> > with compatibility of shellac with hide glue.  Shellac, in fact, 
> seems to
> > be compatible with everything, if it has been dewaxed.  
> > 
> > Mark Potter
> > bases-loaded@juno.com  
> > 
> > On Wed, 6 Oct 1999 21:43:17 -0500 "Richard Moody" 
> <remoody@easnet.net>
> > writes:
> > ----------
> >   I heard about glue sizing but never knew anyone 
> > > to ask about it.
> > > This is on new wood? since it is in the factory.  Was the wood 
> > > filled before this
> > > glue sizing was applied? > Was the glue sizing very thin and 
> brushed
> > on?  Was it "old"?   Was 
> > > varnish or laquer
> > > applied on this glue sizing?  ---ric
> > > 
> >