Adhesives

[Tunethepno@AOL.COM]

In a message dated 10/11/99 6:48:57 AM US Eastern Standard Time, 
cedel@supernet.com writes:

<< I used
 Weldwood Contact Cement, . . .  I spread it thinly with a
 small (3/8") flat brush on both the keytop and the wood of the key and let 
it dry
 at least ten minutes, then pressed them together.  There was a brush in the
 bottle but I was unable to control the amount of glue when I tried to use it.
 Again, the plus here is the instant bond and no clamping needed >>

I've been using Weldwood for keytops and action related repairs for years and 
have been very happy with the results. For application on keytops, I use a 
small, cheap artist or craft brush (the kind that come 3-in-a-package at the 
grocery store) that I can just throw away. I think the width I use is a 
little narrower than 3/8" and I can usually have a pretty fair amount of 
control. When I get a little of that stringy leftover on the face of the 
keytop, I can just rub it off with my finger and it balls right up like 
rubber cement. If it is on there too long, I may have to use naptha to get it 
off and buff the keytop.
For applications that I really want to be sure of, like sharps for instance, 
I use a technique I saw Norm Abrams use on New Yankee Workshop. Put the 
cement on both surfaces in a thin even coat, wait at least fifteen minutes 
and put on another thin coat. After a fifteen or twenty minute wait, press 
the parts together and they will be really secure. Because of the immediate 
adhesion, I sometimes fudge on the wait period by five or ten minutes and 
then let the parts barely touch while I line them up. They can usually be 
nudged one direction or the other slightly and then pressed to make the bond 
solid.
I like Weldwood over Duro because I think it works a little better and I 
don't like the smell of Duro. IMHO
John Stroup