"Jim Coleman, Sr." wrote: > Hi Richard: > > On your question #1, when the hammer is at rest, does the knuckle moulding > point down the back side of the jack or is it at a slight angle to the > jack? This can make a big difference. > Typically when I encounter this problem, the line of the jack compared to the line of the knuckle core are at an angle of between say... 3 to 8 degrees (guessing here). Its really easy to notice. The "point" of the angle made by these points inwards, towards the back of the whippen. I rarely see the opposite direction in any piano, but it happens. This is what makes me suspect the action geometry. Changing the hammer to string distance affects this angle a bit... but the distance is correct for the piano, and in anycase I wouldnt be able to gain enough to straighten the line anyways. I am tempted to pull the whippen rail backwards, but its already back as far as the screwholes will allow. Could always enlargen the holes but.... well I thought I'd confer, compound, and cohort a bit first. grin > > On your question #2, it looks like the back rail is not bedded properly. You > can test this with a long narrow screwdriver blade placed down between > strings and touching the backrail cloth between two keys. Tap the > screwdriver and listen for a knock between the keyframe and the keybed. Even > though you may have bedded the keyframe properly at first, tightening the > action bracket screws to the keyframe can sometimes screw this up. > Thats the funny thing tho,,.. the backrail is bedded, infact the bedding as a whole couldnt possibly be better, and it doesnt really "feel" like its a bedding problem. (tho the "feel" can easily be misleading to be sure) What do you think to this "springy rail syndrom" suggested by others ?? > > Jim Coleman, Sr. > Richard Brekne I.C.P.T.G. N.P.T.F. Bergen, Norway
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