Corfam removal

[Roger C Hayden]

I tried something similar with a dremel tool, just once.  Problem is,
application of 'power' to these parts is stressful, you may end up with
loose centerpins, aka wobbly hammers.

It really doesn't take all that long to remove a set of hammer & butts. 
88 bridle tapes, hammer rest rail out with a couple bends of the
brackets, tilt action in your (hope you have one) action holder.  Insert
long screwdriver in your cordless, and back out the screws on the hammer
butts.  Remove carefully in order, laying out on your open table like a
deck of cards.  

For backcheck removal I neatly rubber-banded eight hammers together, and
hung them with the material just touching water in a shallow pan.  In a
few minutes they would pry off easily.  Next day after drying CA glue the
new material on.

I did use a small sanding device to remove backcheck material a couple
times, but a careful 'artistic' hand is required so the catcher wood
doesn't change its shape.

For the butt skins, a small sharp disposable knife, a couple strategic
cuts, and it was off.  Sometimes a little sanding to clean up old glue. 
CA glue the new piece back on in seconds, stretching against the first
glued end to get consistent fit and feel.  Keep CA solvent handy, unglued
fingertips work better. 

I put the hammer butts back in with a 'hand powered' screwdriver, saving
the tightening for when they are back in the piano-  string alignment. 
Sell a filing and voicing job with this work, I'm sure it's due anyway.

Tuning a piano takes longer than reinstalling a set of butts.  You won't
save much time trying to "power off" the catcher skins.

The improvement in touch is dramatic with the new material.

Roger Hayden,  RPT
Clarks Summit, PA