----- Original Message ----- From: Ron Nossaman <RNossaman@KSCABLE.com> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2000 5:45 PM Subject: Re: Piano Tilter Design Features > >>. One of the items I could really use > >> is a decent shop tilter > >> Tom Robinson > > > >I made mine out of wood. The actual "tilter" portion is ply wood cut to a > >24 inch radius > > So why does it have to be a radius? Why not use an ellipse and put the > balance point where you want it? It doesn't have to be perfect, you can > freehand a decent enough curve to work just fine. > Ron N Actually you don't need a radius or an elipse or any part of a conic section even. You can just have a leg and tilt it back until it hits the leg and it will tilt up on that. However the leg tends to break off so a plywood brace helps. Now if this brace is circular it makes the tilting even more easier. It is easier to draw a circle than anything else, and get two of them exact. It they are not exact weird things happen. You could have a 24 inch circle come to a 28 inch leg. In fact that gives a bonus of having the piano simi tilted which is nice if you have the action and keys still in but the fall board out. I tried the other curves. When I got to the circle I finally found the curve I liked best. I wish I had started with that first. . ---ric
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