>Eyyyy, yaaa yeigh! Keith, you may have a good point also. I wonder... >Terry Farrell Terry, Here are my thoughts on your wondering: 1. You have a unique situation in my opinion, and personally, I would love to have the opportunity you are now facing. 2. Both you and the customer will have to agree to the possible outcome of plate breakage regardless of how far you attempt to reposition the plate. 3. I would forget about using epoxy altogether. 4. Assuming the damper system was somewhat in proper regulation to begin with, I would use pipe clamps to draw back the plate just far enough where the dampers that you say are currently not lifting from the strings when notes are played, or when the sustain pedal is operated, will function/operate. I would not attempt to go any further than that at this time. 5. If step four is accomplished, this would now be the time to drill the holes for the chosen bolt locations as others have mentioned. Having a vacuum cleaner on hand at this time will catch the wood pieces from falling into the open areas. 6. Once you are prepared to fasten the bolts, I would then use some type of rigid spacer that would accomodate the remaining gap left. Maybe washers that the bolts could run through. Something that is rigid regardless. 7. Draw the bolts tight to secure everything and remove the clamps. If the plate hasn't broken yet, to me that would be a terrific signal to proceed with the necessary tuning passes to arrive at A440. The piano will either survive or it won't. 8. If this repair is stable and unable to waver, I can't forsee any other problems. 9. One other thing I might do, depending on how far down the gap exists from the top of the pinblock prior to the tuning passes, is to install some lag screws from the rear to help reinforce the pinblock stability. I may have left something out, but this about covers it for me, sight unseen. Best, Keith McGavern Registered Piano Technician Oklahoma Chapter 731 Piano Technicians Guild USA
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