Bridge Pin/Epoxy Question

[Carol Beigel]

I bought the marine resin from Read Plastics in Rockville, Maryland in the 
mid 1980's.  I used it because it was almost a water thin consistency 
instead of thick like epoxy.  You mix a few drops of hardener with the 
marine resin and it flows easily into the cracks around a warmed bridge pin. 
  You don't necessarily have to fill the cracks all the way to the top of 
the bridge, so it is possible that after the repair, it doesn't look like 
you did anything.

You can probably buy marine resin in any hardware store.  I use boat resin 
to attach the kevlar skid plates to my canoe, but that can be a mess because 
kevlar "floats".  That carbon-kevlar fabric is strong, though, as my 18 foot 
canoe only weighs 37 pounds.  I find that paddling a canoe, and especially a 
kayak equipped with foot braces, takes the kinks out of my back and 
shoulders after a hard day tuning!

Whether or not marine resin is the same as boat resin, I don't know.  It 
would be fairly cheap to obtain boat resin and experiment with a regular 
soldering iron and bridge pins drilled into too large holes in a piece of 
scrap wood.

Carol Beigel


>Hi Carol. Your input sounds real interesting for a "quickie" repair. You
>state that you use "Marine Resin". What is that. Polyester/Fiberglas resin?
>Do you feel polyester (assuming that is what you are using) has some
>advantage over epoxy resin? Thanks.
>
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