bases-loaded@juno.com wrote: > I haven't done this, per se, but I am wondering what is it about the > automotive finish that you think would make it a more practical and > workable material to spray in a small shop than the ones formulated for > wood? I think my point may have been lost somewhere. My idea was not replacing lacquer just for the sake of doing so. Rather I was thinking about a means to produce a high gloss polyester look without actually using polyester since poly is not a particularly practical material for the small shop. A high gloss black automotive finish, however, might have a pretty close appearance to poly, and with an investment in the proper equipment it could possibly work. I am NOT intending on doing this with the piano I am working on now. If there is a practical and relatively economical means of doing this then used pianos with moderate value, (i.e. studio uprights and medium quality grands such as '70s & '80s era Kawais/Yamahas), could be "modernized". Along with mechanical reconditioning they could perhaps become more marketable and profitable. Here is an example: A beat 20 year ebony old Kawai KG-2 School piano might have a value of say $2,000, (I'll be optimistic). If it were restrung, got new hammers/shanks and a key bushing job, it might get around $5,000.00 with some aggressive lacquer touch up. We will assume that the bridges and board are good. Thus you make $2000.00 after the cost of parts. Not too bad for a weeks worth of shop work. But what if you could spend another week. Patch and fill the finish, seal it and prime it, and then shoot on a couple coats of high gloss black automotive finish. Keep in mind that auto shops don't spend half their lives rubbing and polishing. These finishes, (if the surface is properly prepared), come out perfect after spraying without rubbing. The finish dries harder than lacquer and would have an "appearance" of poly. Now the piano has been "modernized" to compete with the pretty pianos the dealer has on the floor. Perhaps then you can sell it for $7,000 - $7,500. It would be better than a cheap Korean piano for about the same amount of money. Okay, so before we get on a tangent on whether or not my numbers are accurate, the question was: "would this kind of refinishing work?" Would the finish turn out as I have described with with little or no rubbing? Would it have the appearance as I have described? It would seem to me that it would if the surface was properly prepped. It would also seem to me that the finish would be more durable than Lacquer. Not as hard as poly, but harder than Lacquer. It would not take as long to apply as would a Lacquer finish since there is no rubbing involved. It would look "purdy" and be economical for a quick turn around on a moderate quality instrument. What do you think, is this a reality or something that only happens in piano heaven? Perhaps if it were that easy someone would already be doing it. On the other hand perhaps no one has yet has tried. Hmmmm. Rob Goodale, RPT Las Vegas, NV
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC