Hello Willem and list, As indicated by others, the plate may be built into the case, in other words part of the case is added above and after the plate is installed. This did provide for some additional structural stability to an otherwise flawed design. First, one should think seriously about this job. Does the plate need to come out? If you are plugging tuning pin holes, or doing treble bridge work, or resurfacing the soundboard, then I guess the answer is yes. I've avoided pulling the plates of squares a few times, but we're not always so lucky. On the plus side, a square plate can easily be handled by one person once it is loose. Just remember that it may be a bit more fragile, too. You've carefully checked for a hidden nosebolt, guidepin, or something similar? To remove a plate with this design, you will have to determine just how much, and on what sides the plate is housed within the case. I have rebuilt only one Steinway square, and a few examples of large plated-squares of other makes, altogether TOO many squares than deserve this tender treatment, but then it wasn't my money being invested. I don't really remember much about the Steinway, but other makes often have either the back edge of the plate let-into the case, or in some instances, both the back and the right side (Chickering?). One edge is bad enough, and certainly two is trouble. If the back edge is the only face, chisel out on an ~45° angle, about 1/2" high along the back edge above the plate. The plate is under the case for about 3/8 to 1/2'" in some pianos. This area often has a bit of trim, and if not, maybe it would better with one to cover up the wound. If both (or even three) edges are housed, you may have to do some very serious case remodelling. A nice sharp blade in a "skil" saw may be needed to cut off the side wall of the case, my recommendation is at a point some distance below the level of the plate, say 1". Set the depth of cut to the case thickness, and use a guide fastened to the case side to achieve a straight cut. Remove a 1/2" wide band of veneer along this cut line first, to be replaced after repairs to the case are made. You will need to make up the stock removed by the saw with a thickness of similar material when putting things back together. Be careful of the back corner which is usually dovetailed together. Investigate the structure and joints carefully first to help plan your attack. Also check the front plate bar (bass end of the plate). This front bar may still be wedged under the solid wooden beam, and that may be a problem area - carefully slice through the veneer about 1/4" ahead of the plate bar and then remove some core material (oak) to allow the plate to rise on an angle up and forward. This mess created can be repaired easily with a nice solid piece, prepping the area while the plate is out, but glueing in after the plate is returned. I've found that this type of work sounds a lot worse than it really is, and that despite the size of the tool and the mess made, things come together just fine in the end. Just take a big breathe and charge in, after doing all the necessary forethought. Good luck! Ralph Thorn Piano Rebuilder, older and early instrument specialist London, Ontario, Canada pianoralph@sympatico.ca
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC