Protek & Teflon

[Farrell]

> Using a real fine metal polish (Brasso is far too
> crude) the metal can be polished......

I'm not familiar with "Brasso". The woman that does my key bushings also
will "clean the key pins". She uses #0000 steel wool. That leaves the pins
clean, but visibly dulled. I have always figured this to be a bad thing, as
the roughened surface would be of greater friction than a super-smooth
surface, and also dramatically increase surface area and thus increase the
rate of future corrosion. I have always taken a metal polish to them after I
get them back and polished them. She says the steel wool is the way to go. I
have my doubts about it being the BEST way to go. Can I assume you agree
with me?

Terry Farrell

----- Original Message -----
From: "Newton Hunt" <nhunt@optonline.net>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2001 11:05 PM
Subject: Re: Protek & Teflon


> > I use drafting tape,
>
> Hi Kevin,
>
> Gee, I forgot about drafting tape.  Many tape makers try to get the
stickiest
> stuff they can get or make.  Of of those glues are stronger than the
substrate
> they are applied to.  Drafting tape on the other hand is designed to hold
the
> paper in one place but the tape will come off without tearing the paper or
> leaving some of itself behind.  Good stuff for weak or temporary stickum.
>
> One of the problems with key pins is that they corrode.  Not much and not
> visibly but corrode they do.  Using a real fine metal polish (Brasso is
far too
> crude) the metal can be polished THEN lubricated along with the felt and
the
> bushings will last much longer.  It is the polishing that helps the most
and a
> good coating of a good lubricant will help prevent future corrosion.
>
> Any time you can rub the pin with the key bushing (apply sideways
pressure) and
> get drag it is a corrosion problem.  Don't believe your eyes, believe your
> fingers.
>
> Have a good week all.
>
> Newton