Lighten Touch

BobDavis88@AOL.COM BobDavis88@AOL.COM
Thu, 16 Aug 2001 03:02:27 EDT


 ed carwithen writes:

>   Owner asked if I could make the touch any lighter.  I said     "Sure, No 
> Problem!!!!">  Ok,      now how do I do that?  The dampers are already 
lifting at about 
> half blow.  It does seem somewhat sluggish.  Please give me your best 
advice..

Ed,
 .
It is either a design problem or a service problem (I'm assuming the action 
is in good regulation). If it is a service problem, simple 
downweight/upweight tests, even with cheesy supply house weights, will 
differentiate quickly between excess weight and excess friction. If 
measurements show that it is friction, you can chase it through the action, 
front to back, checking each friction point in turn, and cleaning, using 
standard lubricants such as Teflon, or repinning as appropriate. If after 
systematic friction reduction, friction is still too high, more sophisticated 
tests are available to determine if the friction comes from a design flaw, 
such as parts not meeting in the most efficient way, but this is less common, 
at least to this degree.

If the weight is still too high (for instance, if (D+U)/2>40gms on middle C), 
it is possible the hammers are indeed too heavy. Again, there are 
sophisticated systems for checking out the design, but there are some quick 
and dirty checks. For instance, set the blow on one note at 1and 3/4", and 
the letoff at 1/16". Set the aftertouch at .050" by putting something that 
thick under the front rail punchings [like a .050" punching or a slotted 
piece of ivory] and add punchings until the hammer just barely lets off. 
Measure the dip. If it is 9.5mm or less at the front of the key, the action 
doesn't have much leverage and will not tolerate heavy hammers. If it is 10mm 
or more, the action has higher leverage. 

Look at the leads in the keys. If the lowest C has more than four, or middle 
C has more than three, it might be an indicator that the builder tried to use 
heavy hammers for one reason or another, and to counterbalance it with lead. 
The result is inertia, the increasing resistance with faster playing.

If you have a digital gram scale, take off middle C and weigh it, shank and 
all. If more than 15 grams, and if the hammers look bulky or untapered, that 
might be a clue that you need to go further with weight assessment. You can 
pop the heads off C4 and C0 and weight them. Eight grams would be heavy for 
C4, and 9.5 or 10 for C0. Or weigh the strike weight per David Stanwood's 
methods. His standards for suggested hammer weight are posted at his web site.

If you don't have a digital gram scale and are doing much grand work, save 
your pennies. They're indispensible for higher-level work.

There is considerable discussion of this kind of action assessment, both in 
the archives, and in past Journals. There is certainly more to this, and to 
developing subtlety of judgment in determining what to change when you get 
past the routine service, but it is where the real satisfaction lies, and 
well worth diving into!

Good luck, and write back if you have more information or questions.
Bob Davis
Stockton, CA




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