Restoring old uprights

[Farrell]

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"Five years prior another "rebuilder" had plugged the block. =
Unfortunately he did not tend to the splits
between the holes and the plugs caused the cracks to expand..."

This is, IMHO, yet another factor in favor of drilling oversized holes =
for plugs and setting in epoxy (not real big - just big enough that the =
plug will fall in with no friction). The too-big hole means no stress to =
pinblock when inserting plugs (as they just fall in), and the thin epoxy =
will seep into cracks, voids, whatever, and help to strengthen the =
block.

:-)

Terry Farrell
 =20
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Jon Page=20
  To: pianotech@ptg.org=20
  Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 7:41 AM
  Subject: Re: Restoring old uprights


  At 10:21 PM 08/15/2001 -0700, you wrote:


    ----- Original Message -----
    From: "Charles Neuman" <piano@charlesneuman.net>
    To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
    Sent: August 15, 2001 7:04 PM
    Subject: Re: Restoring old uprights


    > Let me see if I understand the method described by Newton and Del =
below. I
    > understand it in two ways, and I think only one is right: 1) Do =
you route
    > out large sections of the pin block and then fill those sections =
with a
    > large piece of pinblock, cut to the right size? If so, how large =
are the
    > sections (how many pins are in each section)?
    ---------------------------------------------

    Look behind Door #1.

    Most of the time we route out two sections, the bass section and all =
of the
    tenor/treble section. Then cut and shape inserts to fit.

    Del

  I have photos of an pin block inlay I did on a Bechstein a few years =
ago.

  A table-mount drill press on the keybed with a Forstner bit removed =
most of the stock
  and a chisel cleaned up the perimeter. I left about 1/8" of block on =
the bottom.  The inlays
  were carefully fitted for 'no play' and epoxied in with Epoxy Tech =
301. After that shrank,
  a thicker epoxy was added to the edges and repeated until full.  The =
flange had MarineTex
  epoxy applied and the plate fit in.

  A new pin pattern was laid out on tracing paper and transferred to the =
block.  I drilled the holes
  before installing the inlays. I did not drill all the way through the =
block in order to prevent the=20
  epoxy from filling the holes from the bottom.

  While I had the thin epoxy working, I reglued the square'd corners of =
the case at the bass=20
  and treble.

  Five years prior another "rebuilder" had plugged the block. =
Unfortunately he did not tend to the splits
  between the holes and the plugs caused the cracks to expand...

  The sound board had large areas loose from the ribs which the customer =
didn't have the money=20
  to replace.  I devised the Sound Board Press which employs wooden =
I-beams clamped to the rim
  with pipe clamps and spring-loaded plungers to apply pressure for =
reglueing the ribs, the board
  was supported from the bottom; jpg's available.

  A fun project.

  Jon Page,   piano technician
  Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.
  mailto:jon.page@verizon.net
  http://www.stanwoodpiano.com
  ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~=20

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