Yamaha Butt Spring Cord

[Clyde Hollinger]

Friends,

I've replaced maybe three sets of Yamaha corded flanges, and there are quite a
few other pianos that need the work if I could get the owners willing to pay.  I
must say the procedure mentioned here appeals to me.

I am wondering if Titebond glue is easy to work with in this application.
Doesn't the cord want to pop out of the slot when the glue is still wet,
especially when gluing the second end?  Has anyone tried using some other glue,
maybe a thin type of contact cement, if anything like that exists?

Regards, Clyde

Mike McCoy wrote:

> Speaking of which....
>
>  I just received an order from Schaff and in it was Yamaha flange cord, it
> comes rolled up on a cardboard tube and the directions have you slice along
> the length of the tube to cut exact size pieces and that the length of the
> cord from end of flange to tip of loop should be 12mm.
>
> Mike
>
> Mike McCoy RPT
> Chapters 170 & 190 PTG
> Langhorne, Pa
> mailto:mjmccoyrpt@earthlink.net
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tom Driscoll" <tomtuner@mediaone.net>
> To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2001 2:25 PM
> Subject: Re: Yamaha Butt Spring Cord
>
> >
> >
> > Subject: Yamaha Butt Spring Cord
> >
> > List,
> >     I'd like to suggest a repair for the broken cords on yamaha verticals
> > without replacing the flanges.
> >     For this repair to be viable the flanges are in good condition with
> > solid pinning  and well traveled . If the flanges are in poor condition,
> > than in all likelihood the hammers and other action parts will also need
> > replacing and the cords will be least of your problems.
> >     With replacement yamaha cord on hand I procede as follows    1-
> Tighten
> > all flange screws, space hammers and reshape as necessary, blow or vac
> > action clean.
> >                  2-Remove hammer rest rail ( the hangers are screwed to
> the
> > rail )
> >                  3-Loosen but plate screws and remove butt-hammer
> assemblies
> > and set aside in order.(these are  numbered so  check that they are
> > sequential as you reinstall )
> >                  4- Now your flanges and cords are wide open. Remove the
> old
> > cords. I experimented with various tools to clean out the slots and found
> > the point of a small spade drill bit to work best .Vac any debris from the
> > slots .
> >                 5- Precut the cords. I wrapped the cord around an old  #88
> > keytop  88 times and cut them all at once with
> >
> >  a straight edge and razor blade.This gave me the correct
> > length
> >                6- glue one side of all the cords to the flange with a very
> > small amount of titebond. When you get to the end go back  and repeat with
> > the other side .
> >               7- Reinstall butts and rest rail .( This will give the glue
> > enough dry time.)  Hook up springs, Space hammers if necessary.
> >
> >            This takes me about two hours.The traveling is undisturbed ,
> the
> > flange screws will stay tighter without the initial flange compression
> > against the screw and although a minor point ,the cost of parts is lower.
> > With flange replacement , I had to ream centers, and travel (not easy with
> > the dampers in the way) @ about  four to five  hours total.  Of course any
> > action with these broken cords will usually need regulation so  proceed
> with
> > the usual steps.
> >      Tom Driscoll
> >