Steinway Rail Dowels

[Greg Newell]

Newton,
    Good tip! I've not tried that in the past because I think that epoxy is the
longer lasting repair, potentially. I suppose there's always leather in the hole
too but not for that many. Cheers!

Greg

Newton Hunt wrote:

> > Wim,
> >     You could epoxy the holes and then put in and then immediately
> > take the screw back out just before the epoxy sets. I don't personally
> > like that method because I can never seem to time when the epoxy
> > sets so the repair is somewhat compromised. Why not simply solder in
> > a new rod? It's really not that hard. Try it! You just might surprise
> > yourself and in the process add a new skill to your bag of tricks!!
> >
> > Greg
>
> Greg, if you use CA it doesn't matter.  First spray the screw with a Mold
> Release Agent like McLube, put two to four drops of thick CA in the hole
> (depending up the size of the screw), thread the screw into the hole and leave
> it there until the next day.  Give the screw a strong impact type of removal
> movement to break the bond between screw and CA (the Mold Release works well).
> The hole is resized and threaded.
>
> I have done this on lots of action screw holes, lid hinge holes, and lots of
> other types of holes.  Works wonderfully but you must allow time for the CA to
> set and thick sets slow unless you put accelerator on it.
>
>                 Newton

--
Greg Newell
Greg's Piano Forté
12970 Harlon Ave.
Lakewood, Ohio 44107
216-226-3791
mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net