Spurlock Damper Design

Dale R Fox foxpiano@juno.com
Thu, 30 Aug 2001 19:53:32 -0700


Hi Terry,
	
	You can use aircraft ply available at the local hobby shop if you want
better stability than solid basswood.  Renner sells nice sets of premade
upright dampers about 2 1/4" or so long.  A bit pricey at $50/set.  Look
inside a European upright and you will likely see a set if it is a Renner
action.  We just make our own.  Make several sets at a time as a time
saver.

Dale Fox

On Thu, 30 Aug 2001 15:21:25 -0400 "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
writes:
> Thanks for the input Ed. Yes, I was planning on getting enough 
> material for
> 3 or 4 sets of dampers. I was also thinking of the mass thing. Bill
> indicated he made his little damper 2-1/4" by 3/8" rectagles out of
> basswood. I was thinking at least to start with some hard maple or 
> any other
> dense wood that glues well just to put a little mass in the system. 
> I figure
> it is not like the grand damper in that you are lifting it up - you 
> will
> only have a small amount of inertia to overcome because the damper 
> travel
> arc is nearly horizontal. I'll give some thought to the lead thing. 
> I think
> I will avoid the fishing weights :-). The lead I have from the 
> Stanwood
> stuff could simply be glued to the back (pianist side) of the 
> hardwood
> damper rectangle is extra weight is proves beneficial - or maybe 
> even
> wrapped around the dowel damper head and secured with a drop of 
> thick CA
> glue. I'll keep the spring tension in mind also.  Thanks.
> 
> Terry Farrell
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ed Sutton" <ed440@mindspring.com>
> To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 2:43 PM
> Subject: Re: pianotech-digest V2001 #1106
> 
> 
> > Terry-
> > I have done this.  It is worth doing.  You may also need to 
> replace the
> > damper wires and bend them to a different shape to get clearance 
> between
> the
> > wire and adjacent damper heads.
> >
> > Also add some small weights to the damper heads.  It will improve 
> damping
> > and allow you to soften the springs in the tenor and treble, which 
> will
> make
> > the action lighter.  One way is to drill the old damper heads to 
> hold the
> > little 1/4 inch leads from Apsco.  Another is to wrap lead wire or 
> clamp
> > fishing weights around the damper wire.
> >
> > When you buy the supplies for the dampers, buy enough for 3 or 4 
> more
> > pianos.  Those trips to the hobby shop waste time.
> > Ed Sutton
> >
> >
> > ----------
> > >From: owner-pianotech-digest@ptg.org (pianotech-digest)
> > >To: pianotech-digest@ptg.org
> > >Subject: pianotech-digest V2001 #1106
> > >Date: Thu, Aug 30, 2001, 10:53 AM
> > >
> >
> > > 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 10:34:50 -0400
> > > From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
> > > Subject: Upright Damper Replacement
> > >
> > > Hi gang. Bill Spurlock wrote an article in the Journal in '94 
> about
> upright
> > > damper replacement. The bottom line was that he said that he 
> found that
> many
> > > or most old uprights had bass dampers that were too short and he 
> had the
> > > best luck with dampers that were from 2 to 2-1/2 inches long, 
> equipped
> with
> > > three pieces of 5/8" long wedges. He described how he made his 
> own
> dampers
> > > (making the little boards and gluing the dampers onto new dowel 
> damper
> > > heads) and the process he uses to determine what size will work 
> the best
> for
> > > any particular piano.
> > >
> > > Have any of you gone this route? Or know anyone that has? Is 
> this
> generally
> > > a good way to go about getting good working new dampers on an 
> old
> upright? I
> > > think most of what Bill Spurlock writes is pretty much right on 
> target,
> but
> > > just looking for a second opinion. This is my first upright 
> damper job,
> so
> > > it's not as if I gonna draw upon my own personal vast resources 
> of
> > > experience. Thanks.
> > >
> > > Also, he does not mention using the dowel damper heads in the 
> tenor, but
> > > does suggest that some of the first strings in the low tenor 
> often
> benefit
> > > from a longer damper. Can I trust that there is nothing wrong 
> with using
> the
> > > dowel damper heads in this area? And is there anything wrong 
> with making
> > > your own dampers for all the treble strings (that originally had
> dampers)
> > > and mounting them on dowel damper heads? Thanks again!
> > >
> > > Terry Farrell
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> 

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