----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Newell" <gnewell@ameritech.net> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: December 01, 2001 9:46 PM Subject: Re: Negative bearing > What was the effect of the floating soundboard across the bottom? I've often > wondered why it's necessary to lock it down everywhere. It opens up the sound of the bass a lot. That is, the sound has much more energy in the fundamental and the lower harmonics. It's not, and this is not a new idea nor is it original with me. We've gone into this before on pianotech and you might want to check the archives, but briefly it has been done, at least partially, on a number of old grands and verticals. More recently it was done on Rippen verticals. > Has anyone ever > explored a different material joining the soundboard to the rim? I'm thinking of cone > type stereo speakers where there is a foam rubber of sorts joining the cone > shaped paper element to the stiffer steel frame. It seems to me that there are > some parallels here. Probably the tapering of a soundboard is the closest I've > heard to this. Yes. There are a number of patents that have been issued on the subject. Several of them have the soundboard looking like it was attached to the rim with a system quite similar to the loudpeaker surround. Another idea that was used years ago in the Marshall & Wendell (designed by Chickering) was to use a cut between the inner and outer rims that extended down from the top of the inner rim about half the depth of the inner rim. Kind of a partially hinged mounting system. The typical 'modern' piano soundboard is mounted using what amounts to a clamped edge system. The various types we are discussing seeks to alter that, at least in some areas, making it hinged, partially hinged or free-floating. There are advantages and disadvantages to each. > Since I've broached the subject of tapering I'd like to ask if there are > advantages to tapering in some areas and not in others. I understand that it is > desirable to have a stiffer board in the treble than in the bass. Has any > attempt been made to make the taper gradual from, say, one end of the long > bridge to the other? Yes. In fact, many, if not most, upright piano soundboards are tapered this way. It's fairly easy to do if you can afford a $75,000+ thickness sander. It has been done on grand soundboards as well, but I think the more usual practice is to taper just around the lower half or third of the board in the bass region. Tapering doesn't have much effect in those areas where a direct line from the bridge to the rim goes across grain. The 'solid' spruce soundboard is fairly flexible in that direction anyway. It is much more effective where that direct line goes with the grain. I.e., from the lower region of the bass bridge back to the inner rim. Remember that the stiffness of the soundboard panel is going to increase with the square of its thickness. Any thinning done there is going to have quite an effect on the ability of the bridge/soundboard to move. > OK, now about the long bridge. Should the long bridge > accurately and strictly follow the rim shape throughout it's length? I don't see why. In practice they don't. > Could one > move the long bridge gradually in more toward the center of the board toward the > tenor end as a replacement for (or compliment to) a gradual thinning of the > board toward the same end of the long bridge? Generally the center of bridge load does just that. Keeping in mind that this center will get pretty hard to pinpoint as the two bridges of the overstrung scale interact. One of the sweetest pianos I've ever encountered was a Chickering flatstrung piano which did have the bridges converging on the center of the soundboard (more-or-less). Difficult bridge to drill and notch, though. > If the previous is done would it then become impossible to have the low end > of the treble bridge and the bass bridge be roughly the same distance from the > edge of the board? I believe I understand that if they are not relatively the > same distance from the edge of the board that an impedance imbalance problem > will result. In theory you'd like to have the low end of the tenor bridge and the upper end of the bass bridge more-or-less eqidistent from the inner rim. There are a lot of variables here, though. > I have an A.B. Chase I am delivering soon that has a low tenor > "hockey stick" with all wound strings on it. BOOM, BOOM, BOOM go all the notes > down there. Really quite unfortunate but it was here for refinishing. That > portion of the bridge is curled inward toward the center of the board (where > else would it go?) and is quite a bit farther in than the bass bridge. The > transition is astounding! And not in a good way. Any thoughts? Or am I just > stating what you guys have seen for years? Yes, it's a fairly common problem. I wouldn't say it's the fault of the wrapped strings on the end of the bridge, though, unless they are badly scaled. Even if the scaling is perfect there is still going to be a problem as you describe the system. It sounds like the lower end of the tenor bridge is overly free to move. That is, the bridge/soundboard/rib system is overly flexible right there. If you were rebuilding the piano there is a lot you could do, but otherwise your choices are more limited. All is still not lost, however. Probably the easiest thing to try is to try adding some mass to the back of the soundboard at the end of the bridge. This obviously adds mass when it's probably best to add stiffness, but it's a lot easier to do. In one severe case I fitted a short rib between two existing ribs to add stiffness to one of these pianos. This rib was only about 400 or 500 mm long and was centered right at the point where the last set of strings crossed the bridge. That worked quite well too. Good luck. Del
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