Hi, Mike, I have replaced pin blocks in these old Chickerings several times. The 2-block type seems to be more common, but the 4-block is out there too, like the one you have. It's a perfect time to use up those pin block pieces that aren't big enough for a conventional block. Your router table method is the way I would fashion the step or ledge on the edges, using one piece of wood, not a glued-up pair of pieces. Use any good pin block material that you're comfortable with. I prefer Delignet. In the 4-block type the step goes all around the piece, but the only one you really have to fit is the back edge as in a conventional block. Locate the screw holes, one or two at a time, with dowel centers, pressing the block into position with its own screws after you get the first holes drilled and countersunk. It's not a bad system; you get out of having to attach the block to the rim. I would charge the same for the materials as normal, even though you're using up your scraps, and maybe 25% extra on your labor charge. Good luck, Les Conover (locoles@yahoo.com) --- MikeToc440@AOL.COM wrote: > List, > > I am to give an estimate on replacing the pinblock > of a 9' Chickering. This > is the four-piece, full fit type. Though I've done > a Chickering block once > before, it wasn't my most efficient work. Do any > of you rebuilder-types > have a procedure for this one, or even a few tips? > Should the ledge on each > block section be cut out of one block (using a > router table, as I did before) > or should each section be of 2 thinner blocks, > fitted, then glued together? > Best block material? Price of job as a % (multiple) > of normal pinblock job? > Thanks in advance, > > Michael Tocquigny > > MikeToc440@aol.com __________________________________________________ Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC