Terry: They are called cap screws, and are machine bolts used generally for high pressure manifold connections, can be found at auto supply and machine parts houses. I have been using 1/2"od thread, 7/8" cap x 1" long. The bolt comes with a beveled head, so you'll have to have a machinist mill the caps to about 40-50 thousandths so that the bolt will go flush to the soundboard. There is a hex opening in the top for a 5/16" hex wrench, and you can get a hex connector which will fit the sears brace. You need to prepare the hole in the soundboard/rim by drilling/reaming out about 1/2" down to accomodate the bolt; use a 7/16" bit so that the bolt will have something to bite. Once you have the series of bolts around the rim, you can lay the plate on top of them and work through the lag bolt holes to raise and lower the plate to your heart's content. I have been using them for years. After you have the height you want, then remove the plate and cut and glue dowel which will go in flush to the top of the cap screw; then remove the cap screw. In many SW's the dowel is almost flush to the soundboard, so don't be surprised if your cap screws go all the way down. A better solution would be to grind the plate bosses (see Nick Gravagne's class this summer) and give yourself more working room above the soundboard. For instances where the plate sits higher, you can get the same cap screws in longer sizes; adapt to the given needs. Paul Revenko-Jones
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