Power Sanders and Ivory Keys

[Piesik, John (JPIESIK)]

Rounded edges can't be helped - another reason to use a finishing sander on
the all the keys clamped together. 600 is where I stop. Then, automotive
rubbing compound - red, then white. Auto rubbing compound is awesome for
achieving a perfectly smooth, completely scratchless, glass-like finish -
works super on polished wood finishes, too. I've done it many times.
Absolutely beautiful! Thrilled clients! JP

-----Original Message-----
From: David Ilvedson [mailto:ilvey@jps.net]
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2001 7:13 AM
To: pianotech
Subject: RE: Power Sanders and Ivory Keys


I would be concerned about round edges?  What is the last grade of sandpaper
you use?  Do you eliminate all scratches?

David I.

*********** REPLY SEPARATOR  ***********

On 2/16/01 at 5:47 PM Piesik, John (JPIESIK) wrote:

>Laura,
>
>Just buffing is fine for ivory that's already white and in good condition.
>
>But when the ivory keytops are rough and yellowed, you've got to sand them
>to smooth them and remove the staining. Most of the yellow staining, which
>occurs in layers through the ivory, can be removed with careful sanding.
>The
>amount of material that gets removed is not as much as you might think.
>
>Some have claimed to have had luck with black lights, UV lights, Mr. Sun
>and
>hydrogen-peroxide solutions for whitening ivory, but frankly, I've tried
>these and they are not as effective as sanding. Plus, lighting fixtures
>require electricity, and here in California, electricity is a very
>expensive
>commodity these days.
>
>Sanding ivory is not harmful as long as you're careful about controlling
>the
>rate of material removal - I guess this takes experience. The sanding and
>polishing process must occur at a safe pace and with a minimal amount of
>heat. Most ivory keyboards can be restored to their almost original color
>(at a minimum they can be lightened several shades). I've restored numerous
>ivory sets - and they turn out beautiful.
>
>I'm on a quest for a quicker way to sand through the yellow staining and a
>better way to polish the ivory with a method that produces less heat than a
>buffing wheel.
>
>John Piesik, RPT
>Oceanside, CA
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Laura Olsen [mailto:laura257@chicagonet.net]
>Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 12:26 PM
>To: pianotech@ptg.org
>Subject: RE: Power Sanders and Ivory Keys
>
>
>It seems to me you could get yourself in a world of trouble power sanding
>ivories.  They're thin enough as it is.  Wouldn't they become more brittle?
>I use A buffing wheel.  It polishes them up nicely.
>
>Laura Olsen, RPT
>Team2001 Institute Director
>44th Annual PTG Convention & Institute
>July 11-15, 2001
>Reno, Nevada
>http://www.ptg.org/conv.htm
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-pianotech@ptg.org [mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org]On Behalf
>Of Piesik, John (JPIESIK)
>Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 12:24 PM
>To: Pianotech Post Msg (E-mail)
>Subject: Power Sanders and Ivory Keys
>
>
>Does anyone out there have any experience with sanding and polishing ivory
>keytops with a palm-type orbital power finishing sander?
>
>I'd like to learn of your experiences with power sanders, which power
>sander
>models are best (Bosch vs Makita, variable speed controls, pad shapes,
>motor
>amps, weight, etc), etc. Also, how well do power sanders work at polishing?
>
>The main objective is to keep the heat produced by friction to a minimum
>(heat compromises the keytop glue joint). I've long ago discovered that
>working by hand is the safest way to work with ivory while providing the
>most control. However, of course, it's also the most laborious method. But,
>just maybe there's a better/quicker way...
>
>Many Thanks,
>John Piesik, RPT
>Oceanside, CA