Hi Louis. Looks like you got some good responses so far. I am somewhat of a beginner also, so I also tend to get these small American grand actions in for a refurbish that haven't been touched in 80 years. I have a few comments that have not been brought up for these actions. 1) Refelt the keyframe. Remove all felt and punchings. New punchings, new felt on front, center (use thin punchings), and back rail. It doesn't take long, and boy, it sure makes the keys feel better. 2) Key bushings. They almost gotta be shot - unless they have been replaced in the last few decades. Fixing the sloppy keys will get a lot of bang for the buck in getting an old action up and running (well, at least trotting gracefully). Make sure the rail pins are not rusty or scratched - replace any that are. 3) As someone else suggested, make sure you will be setting a good key height. Best way to do this is to experiment with a couple keys in the piano to make sure you have clearance with the fallboard and keyslip, and that you still get enough travel with the key (keeping in mind new punchings, etc. 4) File those 1/4" deep groves out of hammers. I use the Dremel rig for these real deep nasty groves. Once you get the feel for it, one or two quick passes over those hammers that should be in the trash and you got yourself a good looking, nicely shaped, old hammer that should be in the trash - but what the heck, it'll go for a few more decades! 5) I take the hammer and wippen rails off the action frame and swing the wippens & hammers. Look for the tightest and loosest ones. Remove and check friction in offending flanges. Fix what is needed. Keep doing this until you get the worst ones in the right ballpark. 6) With these nasty old actions I use a home-made wooden let-off rack AND the Spurlock let-off rack and do my regulating on the bench. I highly recommend the Spurlock thingee. I use it for let-off AND for setting drop. With a good FLAT bench, you can come pretty close. And being that you are starting from scratch (way out in left field), you need to get it in the ballpark on the bench. And yes, the other posts are correct that you will need to do some regulation in the piano - I find that sometimes you really need to go through the whole thing again - key leveling, etc. (I suppose because the keyframe/keybed are not real straight) - but sometimes there is barely a thing to touch-up (keeping in mind here we are talking about a 1929 Wurly with presumably original parts - no concert regulation going on here - we are usually looking for function). Here is a question from me: I find that you can usually make an old action work acceptably (anyone that buys an 80 year old original condition tiny American grand AIN'T looking for hi performance). The one thing that I often find difficult to make function acceptably is hammer checking. Obviously, new backchecks and arcing the hammer tails would take care of that, but that has always seemed to be beyond the scope of what this type of piano owner is looking for. As long as the hammer is not double-striking the string, I don't think they care whether the hammer checks or not. I do though. Does anyone have any tricks/tip for getting hammers to check on these actions without new back checks and arcing the hammer tails? Terry Farrell Piano Tuning & Service Tampa, Florida mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "L. Verkoelen" <mrfixit@pineknot.com> To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 12:01 PM Subject: Grand regulating > Hello list, > > My name is Louis Verkoelen. I am a new associate tech high in the resort > communities of southern California and have been tuning part time for > several years. I have been following the list for a couple of months now and > the more I read the more I realize I have yet to learn. I am hoping to take > my tests sometime next year and make this a full time business. > > I have a couple of questions I hope you can help me with. I am doing my > first full regulation on a 1929 4'10" Wurlitzer grand. The lady picked it up > for a song and figured I could make it work right. It looks like it hasn't > been regulated since new. Let off is over 1/2". > Anyway, to my questions. > 1.When leveling, are the clip on weights the best way to go or is their a > better way. > 2.I need a let-off rack. Is the Jaras 4 in 1 rack (shaff) any good or should > I stick to the traditional wood style. > 3.The blocks that hold the key frame in place are missing. They were > originally part of the cheek blocks. Does anybody sell a replacement (havn't > seen them in the Schaff or APSCO catalogs) or do I have to fabricate a set. > If I have to make, whats the best material to use. > > Thanks. > > Louis Verkoelen > Big Bear City, CA > >
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