At 08:50 PM 01/24/2001 -0600, you wrote: >At 07:38 PM 1/24/01 -0500, you wrote: > >Chalk this up to experience, next time try installing a cap and then tell > >us which you prefer. > > > >I would have gone with a new cap. In the archives are the details of this > >procedure. > > >On a little spinet???????? Sure, Once you have your basic router base template mind-set about you, another sacrificed piece of scrap plywood serves the cause. Sufficient masking eliminates the debris. Mind you, most of my templates are for other makes of bass bridge curvatures but a simple item like this... the biggest problem would be saw-dust containment. EEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAWWWWWOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO.... Once routed to the desired depth, the old pin holes and cracks/splits can be filled in with epoxy and the new cap placed right on top. What could be easier? Same profiling required. Let it set, draw your lines, drill the holes, install *new* pins (check the bulge at the camfer - or whatver-it-is, - thanks to Ron Overs and Roger Jolly) Maybe that is why pins are slightly loose at the top...causing . . . variable osilations. "Tapered Pins_Are_Tighter" You heard it here first... Regards, Jon Page, piano technician Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass. mailto:jonpage@mediaone.net ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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