This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment Cool. Thanks for the definition. That's what I was looking for. Terry Farrell =20 ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Tom Servinsky=20 To: pianotech@ptg.org=20 Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2001 6:00 PM Subject: Re: String rollers Hey Terry, Chip tuning is a factory term used to describe the tuning done without = the action being available. The stringer would "chip" or pluck the = string and start the initial tunings. Those tunings are extremely rough = as they really are not meant to be harmonious as they are a means of = getting tension onto the piano. Then the strings are seated around the termination and bearing points = and eventually the action is added. Then the musical part of tuning = begins to take shape. Tom Servinsky,RPT ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Wimblees@AOL.COM=20 To: pianotech@ptg.org=20 Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2001 1:28 PM Subject: Re: String rollers In a message dated 10/4/01 11:31:47 AM Central Daylight Time, = mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com writes:=20 Just what the heck is chipping? Rough tuning while plucking? Is = there=20 something inherently different about bringing a freshly strung = piano up to=20 pitch and in rough tune than doing a several-step pitch-raise? = What is the=20 difference between chipping a piano up to pitch and raising the = pitch of an=20 old upright that is 5 whole steps below standard pitch????=20 Terry Farrell=20 Chipping is the process of rough tuning the piano the first time = right after it has been strung. The advantage of chipping is that it can = be done without the dampers installed. Yes, you can tune a piano without = the dampers, but it would be very difficult to do.=20 Although I stretch the strings before chipping, I also chip the = piano a half step high. My method of chipping is as follows. I find what = note is the first in the treble section. I then find an in tune piano, = and play a note half a step above it. In other words if the first note = in the treble is a b2, I play a c3 on an in tune piano. I then chip tune = a major scale on the left string. I will continue to tune the major = scale all the way up to the top note. I then go back and chip the next = string, c#3, and start a major scale from that note. Obviously, when I = get to the third note of the C# scale, it is already in tune from the c = scale I just did. This is sort of a check for me. I will continue this = all the way up. After all the left strings have been tuned, I will tune = the right string of each note, starting at c3. I then tune one string of = the bass section, to even out the tension on the plate. That is followed = by tuning the middle string of the treble, and I end up tuning t! he = left over bass strings of the bichords.=20 Under normal circumstances, by the time I install the action, (after = the dampers have been hung), which is usually about a day or two later, = the piano will have dropped about 150 - 175 cents, to about 50 - 75 = cents below "pitch." Most of that drop I attribute to down bearing = pressure on the board. The rest on the strings stretching. So I do a = "Normal" pitch raise. (off setting the SAT 25 cents high), followed = immediately by second tuning 10 cents high. Then over the next 2 weeks, = the piano will get tuned 4 more times, with enough time in between = tunings to let the strings settle some more. But each time I will tune = the piano 5 cents high. Just before the piano goes out the door, I will = give it one more tuning at pitch, and tune the piano 2 weeks later in = the customers home. Most of those tunings will require a 10 cent or less = pitch raise.=20 With this procedure, I have found that most pianos will stabilize = after a year, which includes 4 tunings.=20 Willem=20 ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/6f/c1/c7/d8/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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