Hi , That works for sure, but the problem with split (yes!) rails is that regulation don't stay here, and that energy is lost. I had the case of a non split hammer rail, that split when in the shop all the parts where off ( and the shop is climate controlled ). Still did not understood what had been. Ok may be I did not notice at first, but I don't think so, I am careful with that (been caught once it is enough). Do you have the 3M microfinishing film quality (sanding) in the US ? Is 3M an American trade ? I mesure the front rail of the keyboard of my S&S mod C 1969 hamburg, and it is thinned right and left 0.10 ' difference. I did not check the keyed, it seems difficult to have it warped (shaped) at the front accurately (I've find that Kaway key frames where thinned too) Regards. Isaac > -----Message d'origine----- > De : owner-pianotech@ptg.org [mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org]De la part > de David Ilvedson > Envoyé : lundi 22 octobre 2001 23:45 > À : pianotech > Objet : Re: Broken frame rails on Steinways > > > A great repair for stripped screws in general is a shim of hard shoe > leather and a bit of CA glue pushed into the hole along one side or both > sides...Always works! > > David I. > > *********** REPLY SEPARATOR *********** > > On 10/22/01 at 9:45 PM John Delacour wrote: > > >At 13:38 22/10/01 -0400, A440A@AOL.COM wrote: > > > >> I assume by "open" you mean split or shattered. Yes, > this is quite > >>common. It seems that on Steinways built between the beginning and 1930 > >>Hammer rails would often split along the corners. I expected it was from > >the > >>stress of hammer screws compressing the rails onto ever > shrinking dowels. > >>However, I have also seen a lot that were cracked at the bottom, so my > >logic > >>is suspect here.... > > > >The most common cause of split rails in my experience is ham-fisted > >tuner-repairers. First they overturn the screws and order the next size > >up, which they screw into the old holes. Next they overturn these and > >meanwhile the flange is getting more and more squashed. The final > >solution > >is to enlarge the flange holes and use the next screw size up. > These must > > >be tightened with two hands to make sure the flange gets even more > >squashed > >and the point of the screw presses hard against the bottom of the brass > >rail. > > > >It may be that swelling of the maple dowel alone can cause split > rails but > > >I'd say incompetent workmen account for most of them. > > > >JD > > > >
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