Duplex

[Ron Nossaman]

>I long ago
>worried about the possibility of the chuck coming off and flying across the
>room so I drilled a small hole  and put a screw in to prevent that .  I
>don't know if it would help or not.  It hasn't made its maiden flight yet.

No problem. They don't go far. Just watch your toes.


>Since
>I will be refinishing the plate I thought I'd plug the holes and drill new
>holes for the roll pins.  That allows me to increase the rear tail length.
>What size do you use and would you use stainless to prevent rust?  

I use 5mm (0.196") plain finish steel. If they are going to rust, the
strings will too, so why get excited about exotic materials or finishes
unless it's for looks? Your plate thickness should be enough, but I'd keep
them back from the edge and stagger the holes so they aren't in a straight
line making a "break here" perf. Set the plate height so the strings are
kept low on the hitch. No point in putting unnecessary leverage on them.
Also, if the hitch field running between the bass and tenor bridges is very
narrow, I'd use a standard hitch and brass bar through that stretch since
there's not much torque bracing and support in the plate there. Overly
cautious is better than "oops, now what?". If you don't use vertical
hitches anywhere else in the piano, consider at least the bass. These
things are habit forming.


>I think
>they are available in cad plate as well, but since we slide the wires up and
>down that may be scoured off.  This particular piano has one tied wire and
>one loop for each note from note 27 to 53.  It appears that the strings
>would be aprox as much as 1/4 inch above the plate when the downbearing is
>correct.

I shoot for under 4mm. If you float the plate on adjustable bolts, you can
get pretty close.


>At present the tail length of note 27 (first above the bass break) is only
>about 35 mm.  I can easily increase this to 120mm if I drill new hitch pin
>holes.

You'll like the sound and sustain a whole lot more with the 120mm than you
will with the 35mm. The soundboard works better if it can move.



>There has been discussion about hardened capo bars.  I assume there is no
>easy way to harden an existing cast iron bar.

Not easily, that I know of.


>Thanks Ron.  Your generosity is exceeded only by your good looks.
>Carl Meyer  Assoc. PTG

Hey! I'm not that stingy, am I?

Ron N