Joe, Have you actually done a test for the 72 hour strength limit? I use urea to slow the set up time as per Bill Spurlock's advice. David I. *********** REPLY SEPARATOR *********** On 10/30/01 at 8:44 AM Joseph Garrett wrote: >Tom, >If hide glue "Smells", throw it out. As for a video, showing how to use >hide >glue, forget it. It's not that difficult! Below is "Directions for Mixing >Hide Glue", that has been posted in my shop, for my various helpers: >1. Add 1 part Glue to 1 1/2 parts water. (Distilled water is preferable.) >2. Let soak for at least 1/2 hour. (1 hour is preferable). >3. Dissolve by placing in a double jacketed glue pot or boiler, stirring >occasionally. (hint: discard the initial "skin") >4. Maintain heat under 140 degrees Fahrenheit, preferably 130 degrees >Fahrenheit. Do not exceed 150 degrees Fahrneheit. >5. Discard glue after 72 hours. >A few tips: >1. The glue can be reheated many times, but will lose most of it's strength >after the 72 hour period. >2. If it has a rancid odor, this means that bacteria has taken effect and >is >further destroying the strength of the glue. >3. If mold is present, toss it! >4. Glue consistancy is varialble, depending on what materials are being >bonded. ie felt gluing is best done with a FAIRLY THICK glue, whereas >bonding wood to wood, as in hammers to shanks, can be thinner. The test I >use is to stir with a hammershank; lift and count the drops. If the glue >drips faster than 1 drop per second, it is probably too thin. If the glue >drips at more than 1 drop per 2 seconds, it is too thick. >Hope this helps and happy gluing to all. >Joe Garrett, RPT, (Oregon) >P.S. >To all: please be aware that CVA has a life and is a bear to remove. Please >quit using it! Use of CVA, IMHO, is a sign that you are in, way too big a >hurry or you are not thinking LONGIVETY OR CRAFTSMANSHIP!
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