List, On my previous post, I should have specified that the instructions were for the high grade 3XChrome, or similar "flake" glue, which is of the highest quality. For the lesser type glues that you get from wood supply, or piano supply establishments, the soaking time should be for at least 12 hours. This applies to the "Pearl" glues and "Sheet" type glues as well. My "Jose's Hide" glue is in this category. As an aside, yes it is possible to use Urea to slow the set time, but I don't recommend it unless you are REALLY SLOW, or if you are gluing up big panels, etc. In regards to big panels, etc., it is advisable to heat the panels, etc. to retard the set up time. Urea does weaken the glue. I, for one, don't like to have hammer heads coming loose after a few seasons of playing. Don't ask how I found this out. <G> A few extra tips: I use very small artist's brushes, (water color type), with the top of the handle cut off and a small screw eye, (Open the eye to make a hook), screwed into it. I have fitted my glue pots with "verticals" to hang the brush on. This vertical is adjustable, so I just keep the bristle part immersed. My "stir stick" is a modified hammer shank, (great use of cedar shanks, removed from olde uprights). The stir end is slightly tapered so that it is about the diameter of a spinet hammer shank, (3/16"). The "grabber" end has been run into a pencil sharpener and is fitted with an electrical "nut", screwed on. This makes it easier to grab quickly. The final tip is a water "spray bottle", that I use to mist the top of the glue, periodically, to keep the "scum" off and to keep the glue at a consistant consistancy. Again, Hope This Helps. Regards, Joe Garrett, RPT, (Oregon)
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