This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment Del, Might want to mention that West does provide the thickening material for = changing viscosity. #403 Micofibers Adhesive is the name. Tom Servinsky,RPT ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Delwin D Fandrich=20 To: pianotech@ptg.org=20 Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2001 12:49 AM Subject: Re: split bridge =20 ----- Original Message -----=20 From: David Love=20 To: pianotech@ptg.org=20 Sent: August 31, 2001 7:51 PM Subject: Re: split bridge Joe: =20 Why would you not clamp epoxy? The bridge needs to be pulled back = together, among other reasons, to get the pins back in the right = position. My conversation this date with Roger Weisensteiner confirmed = my belief that this would be the method of choice for making this = repair. He suggested using a two part epoxy (e.g. West System type) and = clamp it back together reinserting the pins either before or after it = dried. My concern with after is that if I have to redrill the case = might be in the way. So I will probably reinsert the pins before it = dries. Unlike nearly all other adhesives, epoxy is an excellent gap filler. = In fact, it actually requires a rather thick glue line for best adhesive = strength. Rather than say "don't clamp at all," I would say clamp = lightly--just enough to bring the crack just shy of fully closed.=20 =20 West System is a good epoxy for this repair, but it should be used = with some kind of filler to improve its resistance to cold flowing--it = is a plastic, after all. I would suggest a bit of micro-fiber (ground = cotton fibers) to add strength and some colloidal silica to add = hardness. Try equal amounts of each, adding just enough to bring the = matrix up to the consistency of warm peanut butter. =20 You'll want to insert the pins before the epoxy hardens. And you'll = want to clean up the excess and squeeze-out before it all fully hardens = as well. Things can get pretty difficult after the whole mess gets hard. =20 =20 Regarding solvents and epoxy, I have, in the past, repinned bridges = putting a drop or two of epoxy in the bottom of the bridge pin hole = prior to inserting the pin. The squeeze out I have cleaned up by = brushing it onto the notch using an acid brush with a bit of lacquer = thinner. I think I may have been introduced to this technique by Bill = Spurlock in a Journal article in fact. Though I recognize the = controversy surrounding epoxying bridge pins in, I wasn't aware that a = bit of lacquer thinner was compromising the strength of the epoxy. =20 Joe was referring to the practice of adding a thinner such as lacquer = thinner to the epoxy to thin it out and get it to flow into the cracks = more readily. It is true that you can thin epoxy in this manner, but it = does chemically weaken the material and introduces a certain amount of = shrinkage as the thinner flashes out of the mixture. It is doubtful that = you will get enough thinner into the epoxy mix using it as you describe. =20 Incidentally, epoxy cures chemically, it does not "dry. It is this = property that keeps it from shrinking as it sets up. There is no--or at = least, very little--solvent to flash out. =20 Regards, =20 Del =20 ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/5f/c3/cd/4d/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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