Hey Tom, A 1875 Watt hair dryer is safer. It gets the parts real hot, but won't scorch the wood etc. Fry until dry. Dan on 9/20/01 10:01 PM, Tom Servinsky at tompiano@gate.net wrote: > Z, > It is my understanding that your hypothesis is probably correct: felt was > impregnated or dipped in Mutton talc ( I think that's the spelling of > it....). I had this same conversation with one of the felt manufacturers > several years ago, trying to understand why verdigris had the enviorment to > grow in the first place. > According to the manufacturer, it's not simply the felt/brass interaction as > it's the additive that the felt was dipped into which caused the problems. > The additive acted as the catalyst to react with the brass which caused the > verdigris. > Once the practice of impregnating the felt was stopped, so stopped the > verdigris. > One last note....with regards to the heat gun, have you ever seriously given > the flanges of good heating with the heat gun. Keeping the gun moving you > can continue to heat the parts to an increasing hot level without burning > the wood. I'm not sure if it's the verdigris which has a strong volatility > or maybe it's the years of center pin solutions in the flange, but with an > intense heating of the flanges a blue ploom of smoke will poof up. After the > smoke occurs the flanges become extremely free and the verdigris appears to > be less noticeable. My experience with this treatment has demonstrate rated > that verdigris can burned off off temporarily ( enough) to have relatively > predictable flange correction for about a year. Followed by a dose of > Protek actions can remain useable. > Tom Servinsky,RPT > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Z! Reinhardt" <diskladame@provide.net> > To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 10:24 AM > Subject: Re: too stiff > > >> I suspect that the entire action parts (whippens, shanks/flanges) were >> dipped into a solution before installing on the rails. If that is the > case, >> I should think when only the bushings are replaced, it is only a matter of >> time before that stuff in the wood leaches into the new bushings to > produce >> the old problems. >> >> Last year I came to a Steinway L that was well loaded with verdigris. The >> wood in the action parts didn't feel as dry as I might expect for older, >> possibly brittle parts. It was one of those rare days when I had my heat >> gun with me, so I removed a hammer, and passed the flange very briefly in >> front of the heat gun. Indeed, it looked wet all over, if only for an >> instant. So, I hit it a little harder with the heat, and nothing would >> evaporate. Oh well ... but it does explain why replacing just the > bushings >> is not a permanent fix. >> >> Z! Reinhardt RPT >> Ann Arbor MI >> diskladame@provide.net >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "David Love" <davidlovepianos@earthlink.net> >> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> >> Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2001 11:23 PM >> Subject: Re: too stiff >> >> >> Dale: >> >> Why wouldn't rebushing work? The verdigris, in my experience doesn't >> permeate the wood surrounding it. The question there is whether or not it >> is a practical solution. My answer has generally been no. >> >> David Love >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Erwinpiano" <Erwinpiano@email.msn.com> >> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> >> Sent: September 19, 2001 8:10 PM >> Subject: Re: too stiff >> >> >>> Dear List >>> Nothing works for verdigris long term. Not protek ,not rebushing, not >>> shrinking, silicine oil,not mineral oil ,snake oil or 30 weight motor > oil. >>> Been down that dead end road. Temporary solutions at best. >>> >>> Dale Erwin >>> >> >> >
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