Jon Page wrote..... Snip.... > it is necessary to attenuate the leading edge. >This is accomplished by the method described be Bill Spurlock: (paraphrasing:) >Peel back the covering a bit and pull a few strands out 1/2" or so. Pull >the entire group of strands out another 2". While securing this end of the covering >and strands, slide you hand along the covering to allow the other end to extend beyond >the strands. >This will produce a narrow leader to thread through the flange. The reason >to pull a few strands through first is to allow a gradient to the cord substrate. >Pull the covering tightly and apply CA or hot glue to solidify the narrowed >covering. (spring clamps at each end and hang until dry). Trim accordingly. I learned another method for this procedure, after spending lots of time as an apprentice triming and glueing and not enjoying it. I remove the core as Jon and others have mentioned then pull the woven covering straight and at about half the thinned cord distance from the end I wind a tight eye with fairly thin copper wire. Twist between your fingers till you have about 25mm (an inch to you fellas) length of twist and finish off to tighten around cord with pliers. Trim off waste copper and fold the waste length of cord back over, thus..... ___________ ____________________________)xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx The lines represent the cord, the xxxxxx's represent the copper twisted wire. If I had a digital camera I'd attach a pic. It works well, occassionally can be tight to pull through on some flanges but works for damper springs and the Schwander style hammer return (butt)springs we almost exclusively see in these parts. Hope this makes sense, Regards, Graeme Harvey New Plymouth New Zealand
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC