Drilling fixture again

[Joseph Garrett]

Ok let me try it again. Starting from the platform.
2 pieces of 1 1/2" channel iron w/ casters welded, (or bolted), one on each
end of the bottom of the channel. The casters are HEAVY DUTY ones. four in
all. One piece of 1" Plywood screwed to the channel w/ 1/2" of the vertical
channel above the surface of the platform plywood. Now, construct a cabinet
out of 3/4" plywood to the dimensions I previously posted. On the outside of
the cabinet mount 2"x2"s that have a Rabbet Joint cut, full length, 1/2 the
thickness and 1/4 the depth. Mount these so that you have a trough for a
2"x4" with opposite Rabbet joints cut into it, that will allow the 2"x4" to
slide up and down. These are the "legs". Mark one inch increments on the
guides and the legs. The legs are the same height as the cabinet. I drilled
1/2" holes through the legs and through the cabinet to accommodate 1/2"
carriage bolts, that have had the thread part cut off, (ie only the shaft).
I beveled the shaft ends so that they would center on the holes in the
cabinet. When you lift the cabinet up, the leg slides down. (I use a crude
lever to accomplish lifting the cabinet, first at the back and then at the
front. When you lift the cabinet up to the desired height then you just pin
the leg with the Carriage bolt shaft into the cabinet hole. Oh, I drilled
the holes every 2" so that the legs would have some "meat" to hold the
weight of the cabinet. This every 2" spacing, I have found to be adequate
for the rough height adjustments.
On the front of the cabinet is a split door, which hinges outward from the
center. With a Latch to keep the door closed when drilling and moving.
On the top of the cabinet is the Butcher Block attached to the top of the
cabinet with a length of piano hinge, (naturally). Through the top of the
cabinet I put 2 "T" nuts, countersunk a bit to clear the head of the 1/2"
carriage bolts. Under the top, where the carriage bolts stick through I have
"wing nuts" to serve as "lock nuts". The end of the carriage bolt threads
have a slot cut into them to accomodate a screw driver, for adjusting the
angle of the butcher block.
Attached to the butcher block is an extra drill "base". to that base I put
the appropriate "shortened" column to hold the drill. The drill is a
"RADIAL" type which has a horizontal column that allows the drill head to
extend out about 8" beyond the front of the base/cabinet. Oh, the butcher
block already extends about 4" beyond the front of the cabinet, so I get the
drill head out about 12" from the face of the cabinet, which usually is
pretty close to the key bed of the piano, but not touching. (Felt padding to
the front of the keybed is appropriate.
Now, I take the drill press, (horizontal column/motor/drill head) of of it's
permanent base/column and transfer it to the portable drilling fixture. I
have rigged the electrical w/a quick couple plug and in-line switch. Also, I
have an extra plug for the cord to "loop" the current to a foot operated,
(dead man's), switch.
I attach a flexible air nozzle for cooling and chip blowing to the head. Put
the appropriate drill bit in and start drilling. In all, it takes about 10
minutes to set this up to do it's deed.
I hope that I have made this a little clearer. I do have some photos around
some where, but can't put my finger on them without a "search". Besides, my
scanner is still not up and running. (Busy, Busy Busy.)
Regards,

Joe Garrett, RPT, (Oregon)