work table/sign

[Mike Kurta]

    Hi Terry:
    I've had some experience with  both your questions.  Pine being soft
wood might gouge easily, you might consider tempered Masonite 1/4" as a
surface over whatever you choose underneath.  I've used  2x6, 8, 10, or
whatever.  One lumberyard near my home had a bunch of damaged hollow core
wooden doors which worked great.  Legs can be either wooden or commercially
available metal bench legs.  Whichever you choose, fasten them SECURELY to
the top.  No wiggling allowed.  If the table is to be stationary, think
about fastening it to the wall with angle iron along the back edge -
underneath,  it goes a long way to making a solid installation.
    On the sign question, I had an instant sign made up very simply saying
"  PIANO TUNING"  with a phone number  below.  Drivers don't have a lot of
time to read as they go by.  With regard to sign ordinances, sometimes its
easier to ask forgiveness than permission.  If you see any others in the
area, go ahead and put it up (neatly).  The worst that can happen is you'll
have to take it down, and the longer it is up, the more likely it is to stay
up.   Mike Kurta
----- Original Message -----
From: "pianolover 88" <pianolover88@hotmail.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 1:46 PM
Subject: work table/sign


> I need some advice on building a workshop table. What would be the best
> all-around size/dimensions, and would pine be sufficient for the top? I
was
> thinking of 4/4"'s for the legs.
>
> Also, has anyone on the list ever put a sign in front of your house,
> advertising your business? I live on a fairly high traffic street, and I
had
> the idea to have a double sided sign made, and then hang it from a sign
> post, kinda like those real estate thingees. Thanks all!
>
> Terry
>
>
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