You might contact Dr. Jim Colman Sr. He has a way to get back your crown by cutting the bridge. I've seen it done here in Las Vegas by Carl Fischer on a 9' Baldwin. I was quit impressed. Alan Meyer ----- Original Message ----- From: "Clark A Sprague" <clarks11628@juno.com> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 8:26 PM Subject: Setting the plate > List, I have been working on my beloved Baldwin R for a long time now. > I can only spend a couple hours a night on it, as my store job keeps me > busy 8-10+ hours per day, but I hope to finish it in this lifetime ( > hopefully sometime this fall). > I am to the point of setting the plate, and tonight I got out my > trusty dial calipers, and measured the dowels. To my amazement, I got > readings that were all over the place. As much as .020 difference in the > dowels of the same pair. Is this normal? Should I attempt to take them > down, as I read in the article in the Journal reprints, or should I take > them off and use the Baldwin Plate Suspension system, as also described > in the Reprints? > I know that there is minimal crown in the old board, and one > technician looked at it with me the other day, and said that he would > take them all down the thickness of a penny, but no more than a nickel. > I think I would like to be a bit more exacting than that! But then > again............ > There are no plate bosses on this one, the bottom surface of the > plate is flat, and probably not very regular in thickness from one side > of the hole to the other. Could this explain why there are differences > of dowel length in the same pair, they just made sure that the plate > rested evenly on all of them? Or just not exacting in their methods back > in 1943? > Opinions, advice all? > > Clark Sprague
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