my own Soundboard

[Greg Newell]

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Thanks Del. I was still talking about edge gluing. I would not advocate
joining two pieces end to end in a soundboard situation. Never crossed
my mind. I was thinking of a stronger joint, more surface area between
the boards. I guess I should abandon the extra strength idea from what
you write here. If butt glue joints are among the strongest you can make
then perhaps I should stick with these. Has anyone ever tried gluing up
2 boards first, then adding one at a time until the desired panel size
is achieved? I know there it is added time involved but it does allow
you to concentrate on one glue joint at a time. The jig I usually use
for gluing up panels is supposed to add pressure from the top and bottom
as well as the sides. I have had less than stellar success with this
jig. I'm thinking of doing one joint at a time to give me more control
over the overall outcome without the necessity of a BFS (Big Fine
Sander). Can anyone suggest a better approach or a way I could perhaps
tune this jig to more usability?

Delwin D Fandrich wrote:

>      ----- Original Message -----
>      From:Greg Newell
>      To: pianotech@ptg.org
>      Sent: January 14, 2002 2:50 PM
>      Subject: Re: my own Soundboard
>       Oh Del, do elucidate before I mercilessly butcher some poor
>      unsuspecting tree. ;-) Seriously, I don't want to waste
>      wood. What will happen with a finger joint in Sitka. BTW
>      where can I get some Sitka?
>
>      Greg
>
> If you're considering fingerjoints to butt two pieces of the stuff
> together the right type of finger joint will work. But I assume you're
> talking about edge gluing here.
> Sitka spruce is pretty nasty stuff to machine cleanly when you get
> down to small thicknesses and shapes. With any edge shape as extreme
> as a fingerjoint of normal slope would result in the wood peeling,
> stripping out, compressing, breaking off, and otherwise generally
> self-destructing.
> And jointing of this type is also unnecessary. The flat edge gluing
> (assuming properly prepared surfaces) of vertical grain boards is
> about as strong a joint as you're going to get. Using any reasonable
> adhesive the flat face-to-face joint is going to be stronger than the
> wood itself. So, any shape you use is going to be there for other
> reasons. In this case it is for board alignment. These are pretty long
> boards to work with and we're trying to edge-glue a fairly large panel
> here. The joint shape--of whatever type--is there only to aid us in
> aligning the boards so that we can use thinner stock at the time of
> lay-up leaving us with less to thickness plane and/or sand away.
>
> The biggest problem with any joint shape is that when we thin out the
> edges (assuming this is done in some area, usually around the bass end
> of the board) and cut into the joint shape the glueline takes a twist.
> If the edge shape is abrupt this can be some unsightly.
>
> Del

--
Greg Newell
mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net


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