Old pneumatic players

[Kdivad@AOL.COM]

In a message dated Mon, 8 Jul 2002 10:50:23 PM Eastern Standard Time, MBratPianos@indy.rr.com writes:

> List,
>  
> I don't have many old player systems, I'll stick with installing the new electronic models.
>  
> I have a 1924 Weber grand.  It has a restored player(top mounted).  All hoses and sundries are soft and pliable(almost new).  There is a flap above the keys that expose the roll part thingee, and another flap that exposes the bellows cranks and hoses.  The hoses run to brass fittings between the keys.  These are really long keys too, about 2 feet.  I don't know where the brass fittings go either.  The customer wants me to repair a few ivories (spent the day today bleaching).  I can do a much better job with the keys out of the piano.  I can't even figure out the fallboard on this dinosaur.  I am afraid I will get in over my head removing all the player parts (hoses, roll housing, tempo levers, etc...).
>  
> I have enough experience to do most any in home service, but I'm just worried on this instance.  
>  
> Do the hoses that attach to the brass fittings running between and under the keys attach in a specific order, or do they just evenly distribute the air flow? Are these brass fittings attached to the keyframe?  Does this thing even have a conventional keyframe?  I just didn't dig into it enough to figrue out all the right questions to ask.
>  
> How easy are those tempo levers, chains, & bellows to put back in.
>  
> How easy are these critters to put back together in general?
>  
> Does anyone out there have a step by step method of doing 
> this?
>  
>  
> Thanks in advance
>  
> Mike Bratcher,  Indy

Mike, this is a job that is better done by someone with experience, the hoses are specifically in an order.  The fallboard probably has brackets on the very ends, if you lift the fallboard halfway and look at each end you will find screws.  The key frame is conventional except longer. The tubes under the keybed attach to junction blocks which  attach to junction blocks mounted on the keyframe and will unscrew from the bottom to be pulled down enough to remove the action and key frame.  With the keyslip and cross piece below it removed the levers can be loosened enough to drop down for clearance, they do not have to be completely removed.  The roll motor, some valve blocks and a few pneumatics (varies with model and years) are mounted to action and keyframe and will slide out with action.  You will have to disconnect some brackets, a junction block on the left and a few hoses that go back through the belly rail. Once all that is done the action should slide out conventionally. 
If you are mechanical and observent you will be able to figure it out.  Take pictures for reference.
Now for my disclaimer, the reason I suggest having someone with experience remove and reinstall the action is that reproducing players are notoriously finicky.  Just because the hoses and pneumatic cloth feel pliable does not necessarily mean they are in good shape and both could be extremely fragile.  You risk reinstalling the system and having major problems.  The problems that can come up also have a tendency to snowball and of course in the customers eyes you will be responsible.

Good luck,
David Koelzer
DFW