was sluggish butts/ now verdigris

[Avery Todd]

Tom,

In my experience, if there is verdigris, the end of the pin(s) will be a
green color.

If that isn't the case, then you probably have a friction problem of some
kind. Too much humidity? Too tight pinning? It could be several things.

But as I believe was pointed out the other day, if it's simply a friction
problem and you're not using a lubricant of any kind, then you need to
find a pin that will be tight in the birdseye and then ream the bushing to
fit. Normally. There might be occasions when you would have to rebush but
most of the time, this method of repinning will solve the immediate problem.

If there's excessive humidity, then other things might need to be done, such
as a DC system, better climate control in the house (if possible), etc.

Don Manino's broaches will help tremendously in a repinning job.

Hope this helps a little.

Avery

At 06:15 PM 07/15/02 -0400, you wrote:
>Alot has been said about verdigris on this list and mostly in reference to
>Steinways, it seems.  Since I have only one Steinway owner among my customers
>(and it's a console) I haven't really followed those threads.  (I follow the
>Kimball and Gulbransen threads from beginning to end!)
>
>Many have implied that the sluggish butts I have on my hands (boy, that
>doesn't sound very good, does it?) may be due to verdigris.
>
>How can I identify verdigris?  The bushing is red, not discolored.  The pin,
>when removed, does have a blackish ring where it was in contact with the
>bushing.  The new pin doesn't move any freer than the old pin.  CLP made
>little or no difference.
>
>Ron Koval has offered to lend me a set of reamers, but if it's verdigris,
>will reaming help?  And will reaming the sluggish butts free them up
>indefinitely?  I get the impression that the liquid solutions are only
>temporary, and I would prefer a permanent solution to this problem.  (And all
>my other ones, too.)
>
>Tom Sivak