Mike: I made a tool for replacing the grommets when the rubber disintegrates from around the square nut. I welded a 1/4" drive ratchet extension that was 2" long to a power screwdriver bit. This gave me a tool that looks like this: one end of the tool goes in your battery drill or screwdriver and the other is a 1/4" square female socket. It may be necessary to drill out the center of the extension to make room for the length of the threaded rod with the tool is in use. When the rubber crumbles away from the grommet, use a drop of penetrating oil, WD40, or your favorite "freedom juice" on each metal nut thats left. Snap a pair of needle nose miniature vise-grips (the angle type work best, but are hard to find) around the threaded rod below the nut to minimize twisting the rod. Place the square socket tool over the square nut and carefully spin the nut off. Voila! Saves a ton of time...... Mike Kurta ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike and Jane Spalding" <mjbkspal@execpc.com> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 11:31 PM Subject: Re: Tight Grommets > Matt, > > Aftertouch is marginal to non-existent. If i could have removed the lost motion, that would have restored the aftertouch to about the right amount. I might have had to also shim the hammer rest rail forward. > I'm thinking replacing the grommets will be less hassle in the long run than messing up the key frame. > > Mike > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Matt Wynne <ptuner@optonline.net> > To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 8:27 AM > Subject: Re: Tight Grommets > > > > Another alternative is to see if you can increase the blow distance by > > moving the hammer rail back. This is assuming of course that you have > > uniform excess lost motion. If you try that and you don't have enough > > aftertouch, you can raise that balance rail to add more key dip. That > > right thing to do of course is replace the grommets. > > > > Matt W. > > > > >
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