I do too. I'm gonna do it that way next time. Any error will go toward the 1/2 to 1 degree angle Del mentioned to force the coil to compact - but not so much as to encourage the wire or overlap the coil. Terry Farrell ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Ross" <jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002 5:19 PM Subject: Re: Tuning pin Drilling Angle > I like Newton's idea of using a square, with a 1/8" bock on the end, to get > an idea of what is right, for the particular piano. > Regards, > John M. Ross > Windsor, Nova Scotia. > jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Joseph Garrett" <joegarrett@earthlink.net> > To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002 5:44 PM > Subject: Tuning pin Drilling Angle > > > > Del, > > YOU taught me 5 degrees, remember? Seriously tho, it depends on the > > configuration of the bearing surfaces between the tuning pin and the > > aggraffe/capo bar/"v" bar/etc. > > In the typical grand there is a low bearing surface and then the aggraffe > at > > a lower plane. In many grands there is a thicker bearing surface that > > dictates that the tuning pin angle needs to be greater in order for the > > string to "slightly" bear up against the coil. > > I should not have given the 5 degrees suggestion without clarifying the > > situation. For most of us, (rebuilders), it becomes intuitive as to what > > angle to drill at, regarding the configuration of the web/bearing > > surface(s), etc. > > In some of the really olde, open-faced pin blocks, the pinblock itself is > at > > a pretty steep angle. In that case I choose to drill whereas the tuning > pin > > is straight up and down, even tho the actual angle of tuning pin/pinblock > > surface may be as much as 10 degrees! > > I think the rule should be: examine the situation and drill accordingly. > > Best Regards, > > Joe Garrett, RPT, (Oregon) > > > > > >
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