Uh, yeah, of course that's the way I do it. That's why I was asking about drilling in from the back! Seriously though, ah, yes, silly me - go in from the top of the posts/spacers - that will indeed make all super-solid - I guess the lid was in the way of my imagination! Thanks Roger. Terry Farrell ----- Original Message ----- From: "jolly roger" <baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2002 10:23 PM Subject: Re: separated pin block > Hi Terry, > Drill straight down vertically, half the material coming from > the post, half from the spacer. About three quarters way down the depth of > the spacer. Use PVC electrical tape to seal the bottom and sides of the > spacer. The dowel will lock the spacers in position. The epoxy will > gap fill, the space between the post and spacer. Simple and > neat. Remember to do the bottom spacers while you are at it, for a > complete rigid structure. When rebuilding verticals it will make a big > difference to sustain. > > We do the repair with the piano on it's back, so the drill is parallel to > the floor. It's hard to dam the spacer to post gap, at the rear. > > It's almost an exercise in futility, bolting every thing together, if the > spacers are loose. In most cases where there is block to back support > separation, the spacers are also loose, for all the time it takes just > dowel them. > > I thought every one did this way. <G> > > Roger > > At 08:42 AM 9/8/02 -0400, you wrote: > >You are just absolutely too amazing! Tell me if I am picturing this right: > >You drill a 1/2" hole (horizontal to the ground and perpendicular to the > >piano back) along the vertical joint line on the back of the piano between > >the post and the spacer? And then epoxy the dowel in the hole? > > > >I'm sure that would indeed firm the back right up! This is a VERY good > >idea for when you have the separated back on those short pianos where the > >entire tenor tuning pin field covers much of the upper section of the > >plate and you just can't put a bolt or lag through a post. > > > >I have through bolted through a spacer that was unsecured. Believe me, the > >spacer moves, not the plate! > > > >Terry Farrell > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "jolly roger" <baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca> > >To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > >Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2002 2:00 AM > >Subject: Re: separated pin block > > > > > > > At 09:53 PM 9/6/02 -0400, you wrote: > > > >Sounds like a good way to make this repair real neat. I have bent a > > couple > > > >BIG "C" clamps doing this repair. I have found pipe clamps to work better > > > >for me. But hey, that's just me! ;-) > > > > > > > >Terry Farrell > > > Hi Terry , > > > I have 6 really heavy duty German made C clamps, with > > > lots of torque. > > > If the lag screws go into spacer blocks I dowel the spacers to the back > > > post with 1/2" maple dowel. Run the dowel through the belt sander to > > put > > > a small flat down it. A liberal amount of epoxy down the hole. Insert > > the > > > dowel rod, twisting it as you go. This will allow a space to get the > > excess > > > epoxy to get out. It will make the back support nice and solid. > > > Roger > > > > >
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