Mitre saw keyfront removal.

[Mike Kurta]

    Hi Joe:
    Re-reading you original idea, I see that it would work well.  If you're
going to Dallas, I'll bring a picture of my table saw jig which hold the key
firmly and the stop block that positions the end of the key much as you
describe.  Maybe you can take a picture of your setup for me to look at.
I'm always interested in new and better ways to do things.
    Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe And Penny Goss" <imatunr@srvinet.com>
To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, April 11, 2003 10:45 PM
Subject: Re: Mitre saw keyfront removal.


> Mike,
> I have to strongly disagree, at least for this clutz.
> My jig holds the key for me with a little help from my left hand while my
> right hand opperates the saw blade. Quick as 5 seconds per key the key top
> surface is prepared. I have tried the table saw and the radial or chop saw
> with a large blade is by far the best for my use.
> At the present the jig is on loan to be cloned.
> I hope to get it back in a month.
> Joe Goss
> imatunr@srvinet.com
> www.mothergoosetools.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Kurta" <mkurta@adelphia.net>
> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: Friday, April 11, 2003 8:14 PM
> Subject: Re: Mitre saw keyfront removal.
>
>
> >     Table saw works better-no flex or wobble, more accurate and safer
too.
> >     Mike Kurta
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <tune4u@earthlink.net>
> > To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > Sent: Friday, April 11, 2003 9:15 PM
> > Subject: RE: Mitre saw keyfront removal.
> >
> >
> > > Sounds very reasonable. I'd want to make darned sure nothing moved, so
> > maybe
> > > a mark scribed or drawn on the sawbed or guide at the end of your
> clamped
> > > stop block?
> > >
> > > Alan
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]On
> > > Behalf Of gordon stelter
> > > Sent: Friday, April 11, 2003 7:53 PM
> > > To: Pianotech
> > > Subject: Mitre saw keyfront removal.
> > >
> > >
> > > I haven't tried this yet, but it occurred to me that
> > > an accurate way to remove keyfronts with a "chop-saw"
> > > might be as follows:
> > >      1) Place a key to the left or right of the saw
> > > blade, depending on the "dogleg's" necessity to stay
> > > clear of rear fence. Place it under the blade so that
> > > exactly the right amount will be trimmed off.
> > >       2) Take a block of some stable material and butt
> > > it against that key's front. Then clamp another block
> > > to the saw base, butted up against the far end of the
> > > first.
> > >       3) Now, by butting your "measuring block"
> > > against the permanently clamped "stop block" and then
> > > clamping the key in place against the "measuring
> > > block" before tremoving it, the keys should all have
> > > exactly the same amount of front trimmed off,
> > > presuming no blade wobble.
> > >      If anyone has a better idea, I would love to hear
> > > of it.
> > >      Thanks!
> > >      Thump
> > >
> > >
> > >
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