Titebond extend gluing times.

[Phillip Ford]

>Well, I certainly considered it. Then I could charge more for 
>"marine grade" ribs. I thought about giving it a try and measuring 
>how much epoxy I applied, less how much oozed out, and then 
>calculate how much this might affect the overall density of the rib. 
>You can't epoxy starve an epoxy bond - so you need to use light 
>clamping pressure, and leave some significant amount of epoxy in the 
>joint.

Yes, I suppose it could be tricky to get this right.  Epoxy may be 
relatively more sensitive to clamping pressure than Titebond.  I've 
done some laminating with epoxy which seemed to work out fine, but 
not anything requiring a lot of structural strength.  Of course, I 
don't think that laminated rib glue joints require that much strength 
either.

>  'Course one nice thing about using epoxy is that you can run your 
>laminates out from the bandsaw straight into the bonding fixture and 
>bypass the planer. My guess is that the amount of epoxy in a five or 
>six laminate rib would adversely affect the overall density of the 
>rib.
>
>Besides, Titebond is cheaper. And my shop dog likes Titebond better 
>than epoxy - but not nearly as much as hide glue.
>
>Terry Farrell
>

Since there's some question about cold hide glue, you could also make 
your own extended set time hot hide glue by adding urea to it.  I've 
done this with success as well.

Another glue I haven't heard mentioned is resorcinol (another 'marine 
grade' option).  I seem to recall that some years ago I went to a 
convention class given by someone from Baldwin (I wonder if it could 
have been Del - I don't remember) and he said that Baldwin had done 
some creep testing on glue joints with various types of glue.  As I 
recall, he said that the only glues that did not creep in their 
testing were hide glue and resorcinol.  I don't remember if epoxy was 
one of the adhesives tested.

Phil Ford