This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment Hi Dave: I fail to see how pressing the damper pedal would affect the checking of the hammers. If you press a key slowly, does the backcheck get close enough to the hammer butt to touch it, and (hopefully) to catch it on the rebound? How far from the string is the hammer when it checks? Sometimes the checking distance is too close to the string. Be sure, also, to adjust the lost motion. Too much will prevent the proper checking action, the same as insufficient dip. The leverages are already set by the design of the action. It is the travel (movement) of the parts, and the distances involved that allows the action to do what it is designed to do. (Assuming the parts themselves are not damaged, worn out, loose, or stuck). There are two things that need to happen for the hammer to check. The jack must clear the butt, and the backcheck /whippen /hammer butt need to come into contact. Even if you have aftertouch, still, other things can affect the checking. The Mason I was working on had aftertouch, and seemed to play correctly, but for want of sufficient dip, was not working to its optimum. A little more dip made the world of difference. It is my experience that the Chinese pianos sometimes aren't regulated to my liking. Although they may work, often they need better regulation. This may entail raising the center rail, leveling keys, shimming the hammer rail, bending the backcheck wires, whatever. Let me (us) know if adding more aftertouch (dip or shorter blow distance) does the trick. Paul McCloud San Diego -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of Piannaman@aol.com Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2003 8:54 AM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: Re: Story and Clark/QRS console bubbling hammers Hi Paul, Thanks for the advice. There is plenty of aftertouch. That was one of the first things I checked and corrected, because initially, there was none. Everything works fine--until the damper pedal is engaged. I will put some thicker punchings on a few balance rail samples and see if it can be regulated properly before I raise the whole rail. Could it be a leverage issue?? Dave Stahl In a message dated 12/6/03 8:29:10 AM Pacific Standard Time, pmc033@earthlink.net writes: You need to determine if there's enough aftertouch. As you go through let-off and the key bottoms out, check to see if there is a little forward motion of the hammer, and that the jack it out from under the hammer butt. If not, your key dip is still too shallow. Putting a thinner punching may get you closer to the correct dip, but you need to be more precise with this adjustment. Setting the letoff point will help some, but you must be sure that you have enough dip to make it work. I recently worked on a Mason Hamlin large upright which had a similar problem with bobbling hammers. Actually it wasn't so much bobbling, but the piano had a kind of "loose" feel. By raising the balance rail, the dip increased and the checking worked much better. Hope this helps. Paul McCloud San Diego ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/04/7f/e7/f1/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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