Hide glue(s) used in piano construction

[Isaac sur Noos]

Richard,

Not sure you have to worry about, most techs here use "pearl glue"
that is bone glue(plus certainly conservative agents for the kind sold
by Dick) , and if the batch is well done and the glue joint well
matched, they don't experience particular fail. How do you believe
that good glue may look ?

I add what they call hide glue and that is supposed to be more
flexible, I believe that what they sell as hide is in fact more or
less nerve glue.

I've seen the US sites on glue
http://www.milligan1868.com/flowchart.html (and
http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Data/Materials/hideglue.html)
they are much more precise than what I had there. I'll ask Dick if
they have more elements on their glue quality,  in France, even in
professional cabinet maker trade, it seem to me difficult to have
different grades and even information on the strength of the glues.
(one of the sites listed say that we should not use glue that the
seller can't give us strength properties)

I just noticed that the bone glue from Dick is smelling good longer,
that I can use the batch slightly longer than others, it drip well,
and I don't have experienced fail with it , as opposed to some batches
I had from other suppliers in Paris, with time we get a feel for glue
quality by look at it (transparency) and see how it react to
water/heat, drip, etc.

I guess that what Joe mean with "too much fat" is that the glue have a
too high surface tension, that does not allow it to penetrate well
enough (moist) the parts. The same effect occur when using urea.

For me the way the glue goes on the brush and the parts tells it all,
You also can take a little part of dry (cooked) glue and break it with
a hammer to see the hardness.

I've seen well known shops where using hot glue mean plugging the glue
pot and adding a tad of water, no doubt the results are then less
good.

Not very height tech indeed but that's all I have actually. I just
worked on an 1857 Erard grand and yet glue quality was certainly very
good at these times. What I see is that when I want to unglue parts
then I can check the strength of my glue.

Checking in violin makers trade should certainly give good results.


I notice also that often with Joe a thing is white or black (or most
things that he don't use himself are crap ;>)

I'll try to keep away from that alarming tendency myself , if I can.
Then ,certainly that the glue produced with industrial animals that
are eating transgenic food may be less good that the one made with
cows and pigs that joyfully run in the fields, and that listen to
classical music when in their stables :>)

Let the strength be with your glue !

Isaac







------------------------------------
Isaac OLEG
accordeur - reparateur - concert
oleg-i@noos.fr
19 rue Jules Ferry
94400 VITRY sur SEINE
tel: 033 01 47 18 06 98
fax: 33 01 47 18 06 90
mobile: 033 06 60 42 58 77
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> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : pianotech-bounces@ptg.org
> [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]De la
> part de Richard Brekne
> Envoye : mercredi 24 decembre 2003 11:55
> A : Pianotech
> Objet : Re: Hide glue(s) used in piano construction
>
>
>
>
> Joseph Garrett wrote:
> >
> > Calin asked: "I think, and others seem to confirm this,
> that waht is called
> > here "bone
> > glue" is in fact hide glue. It comes in transparent
> brownish pellets
> > packaged in plastic bags.
> > Does your hide glue look the same?"
> >
> > Calin,
> > NO! The stuff you are descrbing is properly called "Pearl
> Glue". I've tried
> > it and it's junk.
> > Best Regards,
> >
>
>
> Great... it came highely recommended and I just used it for a set of
> hammers..... juz,wnerful.
>
> :(
> RicB
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>