Thanks for the response David. I will post to the Shapton site - I didn't realize they had a forum. The guy that made me several very nice wooden planes (Steve Knight: http://www.knight-toolworks.com/wooden.htm) highly (and I mean HIGHLY) recommended the Shapton ceramic stones. They do cut very well, and wear very slowly. I had used an EZ lap diamond stone prior to that and liked that plate quite a bit, but Steve just about hit the roof when I suggested that I might sharpen his iron on a diamond plate. He said it would ruin the iron. I don't have a clue why that would be the case. I'll try the Shapton forum. Maybe I'll have a Zen-like experience. Terry Farrell ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Skolnik" <davidskolnik@optonline.net> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2003 12:37 AM Subject: Re: Plane/Chisel Stone Sharpening > Terry - > > Like Greg Newell, I would recommend a Tormek, which I own and am happy > with, however, I went to the Shapton site and went into the forums. I > realized that you probably already have a considerable investment in these > stones, and a lot of people in the Zen sharpening culture seem to think > very highly of them. Of the discussions I read, no one seems to imply that > they use any guides with these stones. Why don't you post to them? They > seem to be willing to address this sort of question, though I suspect you > might want to retire the skill/experience comment, for obvious (I think) > reasons. I did get the sense that these stones are designed for Japanese > style cutting tools, not Western. Sharpening...Now, there's something > uncontroversial. Good luck > > David Skolnik > > At 08:57 PM 1/28/2003, you wrote: > >I have a question for those who sharpen plane blades and/or chisels on > >some type of stone (Japanese waterstone, ceramic, Arkansas, or whatever) > >and use a honing guide. I have trouble reproducing the EXACT angle of the > >blade in the honing guide when I want to touch up the edge. Or if I am > >sharpening several plane blades and chisels, I would like to do all the > >coarse work first, then the medium grits, fine, and then polishing. (I've > >been sharpening ALL my chisels and planes for TWO DAYS NOW.) But unless I > >have a honing guide for each piece, I find it very difficult to reproduce > >the exact angle for fine grinding and polishing. The only way I can really > >see it working is to attach the honing guide to one piece and go through > >all necessary grits (or have a honing guide for each piece to be > >sharpened). Then next time the blade needs some touchup, you will need to > >go to a grit that is able to correct any angle deviation that you have > >from mis-angling the honing guide. > > > >I am using Shapton ceramic sharpening > >stones: http://www.shaptonstones.com/ (Professional Series) and the > >Veritas Honing Guide and Bevel Setter: http://www.garrettwade.com/ (type > >in "veritas honing guide). > > > >Am I missing something here? Or is this a universal problem? Or is this > >one of those skill/experience things (damn, I hate those)? > > > >Terry Farrell > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
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