Got a telephone no. or email for Arledge? Richard -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]On Behalf Of Brent Musgrave Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2003 7:12 PM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: RE: Baldwin Bass Strings List, A good friend of mine who is a retired university technician just restrung a Baldwin-M recently. He did not have to send samples for duplication. He used Arledge bass strings and had very high praise! I did not personally hear the piano but Dean said it sounded very nice. Regards, Brent Musgrave pianotech-request@ptg.org wrote: >Send pianotech mailing list submissions to > pianotech@ptg.org > > >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > pianotech-request@ptg.org > > >You can reach the person managing the list at > pianotech-owner@ptg.org > > >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific >than "Re: Contents of pianotech digest..." > >Subject: RE: Baldwin >Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 23:33:29 -0400 >From: "Tom Driscoll" <tomtuner@comcast.net> >To: "'Pianotech'" <pianotech@ptg.org> > > > > >-----Original Message----- > Subject: RE: Baldwin > >Can you recommend an exacting string maker? I'd sure like this piano to >sound as good as it can. It sits in the living room of the U.S. >ambassador >to Panama. > > > > >Richard, > I can recommend Sanderson in Littleton Mass. > Tom Driscoll > > >Subject: Re: list-now Humor OT >Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 22:49:57 -0700 >From: Robin Hufford <hufford1@airmail.net> >To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> > >Tom, > Obviously you are a veteran of the list. Very funny, original and >amusing. >Regards, Robin Hufford > >Tom Driscoll wrote: > >> Part 1.1 Type: Plain Text (text/plain) >> Encoding: 7bit > > >Subject: Re: More cut-off bar questions >Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 23:24:43 -0700 >From: Robin Hufford <hufford1@airmail.net> >To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> > >Hello Ron, > Nearly all of the cut-off bars I have seen on uprights have been >what >you describe - the Clayton variety. Similarly the case with grands, >although occasionally one sees a cut-off bar attached to the beams, I >think, as you describe. > Along this line I have recently looked at the cut-off bars on the >Wissner upright which I posted to on this thread six or eight weeks ago, >and Wissner does indeed use these features. There is a large section in >the upper left corner in which a diagonally placed bar, approximately >three inches wide and one and a quarter inches thick cuts off a large >area of the sound board extending about 16 inches along a diagonal line >drawn from this corner to the opposite one. The ribs are let into this >cut-off bar, and terminate in it. The bar, which is normal to the >diagonal and thus defines a fairly large area of the board in this >corner, appears to be a solid piece. On the opposite corner a smaller >section is cut-off not by a bar but by a gusset shaped piece that >appears >to be about one and a half inches thick, extending from the vertex along >the bottom of the board for about eight inches and up the side of the >board for approximately 25 or so, and then connected from the two ends. > The sound of this piano, while not of the timbre per se that my ear >favors best, must be heard to be >comprehended both as regards power, ringtime and attributes which one >might consider as "grand like". And this in its present, unrebuilt >condition. > Another interesting feature of the piano is the plate which >contains >a flange fitted pinblock that is blocked up off the back. Spacers >occupy >a space analagous to the action cavity on a grand but only and inch or >so deep, >and carry the screws into the back from the front of the block. Another >is a Capo >d'Astro that extends across the entire length of the piano. > I intend to take some pictures of a Sohmer grand with the agraffed >bridge later this month as per your request of some time ago and get >them >to you. > In my opinion there is no better termination system devised than >this system for pianos, which I believe also has been used by several >European >manufacturers in the past. Others will no doubt disagree but, to me, >this is immediately made apparent by the far superior ringtime and power >of these kinds of systems. The conventional pinned bridge is, as far >as >I can see, a masterpiece of compromise whose fundamental aim is >cost-efficiency first and foremost, termination efficiency second, and, >perhaps, tradition third. And it is a very poor second at that as >regards >the termination function. > Steinway's traditional term for this bar, in the past, has been >"Closing rim" and this often cut-off a space where the board was >entirely absent and was used on numerous pianos. >Regards, Robin Hufford > >Overs Pianos wrote: > >> >What is a Clayton's cut-off? >> > >> > Calin Tantareanu >> >> Around thirty years ago, when I was finishing school, Claytons Tonic >> was the non-alcoholic drink folks would take if they weren't into the >> real stuff. >> >> Similarly, the 'Claytons cut-off' is the one which isn't attached to >> the back beams. Should one be completely overcome by the urge to use >> an unattached cut-off, you might as well save the wood unless the >> sales folks are short of speel. >> >> I don't know if the tonic is still made, but there's certainly no >> shortage of Claytons cut-offs to be had. >> >> Ron O. >> -- >> >> OVERS PIANOS - SYDNEY >> Grand Piano Manufacturers >> _______________________ >> >> Web http://overspianos.com.au >> mailto:ron@overspianos.com.au >> _______________________ >> _______________________________________________ >> pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > >Subject: RE: Baldwin >Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 23:49:58 -0500 >From: Ron Nossaman <RNossaman@cox.net> >To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> > > >>Can you recommend an exacting string maker? I'd sure like this piano to >>sound as good as it can. It sits in the living room of the U.S. ambassador >>to Panama. > >Mapes is quite capable of making a good set of strings, as is Arledge or >Sanderson. The question is making them to what specifications? That's the >rescaling Terry was talking about. > >And, incidentally, why is it more important that the piano sound good for >the U.S ambassador to Panama than if it was for the widow Iris Flowers from >Grand Junction, who would be spending the same money for similar >expectations? I've always wondered about this sort of distinction. > >Ron N > > >Subject: Conversions >Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 23:43:27 -0700 >From: "Joseph Garrett" <joegarrett@earthlink.net> >To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > >Ron said: "Wow! Break out your bookmarker and chisel this one near the top >of the list."!!! >Damned thing almost gave my 'puter a hernia!<G> Must be those metric freaks >again!<G> >Thanks Ron. Don't know what to do with it, but, thanks anyway!<G> >Best Regards, >Joe Garrett, RPT, (Oregon) > >Been There, Didn't Like It, So I'm Here To Stay! [G} > > >Subject: Re: Baldwin/Richard Stang >Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 23:47:57 -0700 >From: "Joseph Garrett" <joegarrett@earthlink.net> >To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > >"I don't >know whether I should have Mapes or Schaff make the strings. I think Schaff >is cheaper, but maybe not so much so. What do you all think?" >Hmmm? Last I heard Mapes and Schaff are one and the same. If you want good >strings, get them from someone else, like Walter Schenke, Canada, J.D. >Grandt Piano Supply Co.!!!! >Just my slant on it.<G> >Best Regards, >Joe Garrett, RPT, (Oregon) > >Been There, Didn't Like It, So I'm Here To Stay! [G} > > >Subject: RE: looking to replace my upright... >Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 23:50:38 -0800 >From: "Stephen Airy" <stephenairy@fastmail.fm> >To: "Piano Tech list - PTG" <pianotech@ptg.org> > >I did a little bit of thinking the last couple days on this subject. I'm >thinking that maybe I should use my current upright to learn how to hang >hammers and regulate an action (and maybe also replace whippens, hammer >butts, or a few other things, but I haven't decided yet). So... I'm >temporarily taking myself off the market for a piano, at least for the >time being. However, I am thinking about waiting a while, and saving up >some money. > >I suppose I could plod along with my current piano, but when I am ready >to upgrade, does anyone have any suggestions on what to get? I'm >thinking I would be open to either an upright or a grand, although if I >got a grand it would have to wait a while before I get one, as I am >living with my parents at this time and they don't have room for another >grand. Also, what would be a good price range to look at? I don't need >any fancy "furniture", but I do want a good responsive action, that >allows for fairly fast playing, and good dynamic control, and a good, >full, rich, brilliant tone, abundant in higher harmonics, all the way >from A0 to C8, especially on FF passages, but not harsh. If I go for a >grand, I'm thinking at least 6 to 7 foot, but I don't want to spend a lot >of dinero on a piano, so for me, a new piano from a dealer is out of the >question, unless I wait a really long time and have >$50,000 to spend on >a piano. What do you think I should be able to get for, say, $2,500? >$5,000? $10,000? $20,000? any other price tiers you might suggest >looking at? Like I said above, I've been thinking that I should probably >learn some more technical things on my current piano, then after a couple >years or so, start looking at getting another one. Ultimately, I'd like >to get a Bosendorfer Imperial, but I would have to save for a >LLLLOOOOONNNNNGGGGG tttiiimmmeee... and I wouldn't want to stick with my >current piano for all that time. I would want to have at least one or >two steps between an old klunker upright and a halfway decent 8-octave >9'6" grand. :) Depending on available space and the price, I would be >willing to get an older rebuilt 9 foot piano, even if it was not a >Steinway. I played a Knabe 9' grand recently that someone had advertised >for $8,000, but I don't have the money for that right now, but if I did >have the money and the space, I'd consider buying it. Unfortunately, >it's a limited time deal (private seller though) so when I AM able to buy >something that size for that price, it probably won't be available. :( >-- > Stephen Airy > stephenairy@fastmail.fm > >Subject: Re: Flange Center Friction Increase >Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 19:50:26 +1000 >From: "Scott Jackson" <ScottWayneJackson@hotmail.com> >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > >No matter how 'gently' i try, i have never been able to put a cut centre pin back in a bushing without knocking out the cloth! I would not recommend trying this to anyone (unless they really want practise at re-bushing flanges!). > >Scott Jackson >Australia > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Paul Chick (Earthlink)" <tune4@earthlink.net> >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> >Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2003 10:07 AM >Subject: RE: Flange Center Friction Increase > > > >| Terry >| Isaac Sadisgursky talked about this in his class on center pins at the >| Convention. He demonstrated how a center pin can be too tight in the >| bushing cloth and loose through the wood, just the opposite of what it >| should be. This problem can be spotted as you describe--fewer swings as you >| go along. Here's his test: carefully remove the center pin from an >| offending flange. Gently place it back in the bushed flange and check the >| friction just by pushing the pin with your fingernail. Now place the same >| pin in the wood and push it with your fingernail. Chances are you can push >| it right through the wood. The problem is caused by using the assembly wire >| used in the flange to size the bushing cloth during manufacturing. When the >| flange is installed, the worker slides the wire back to clear the other >| member then slides it through and cuts it to length, fitting done. Isaac >| says to watch for centers that are clipped on both sides of the flange. >| This will tell you a wire had been used. He then went on to demonstrate how >| to repin a set of flanges in about 45 minutes. >| Paul C > >Subject: Re: looking to replace my upright... >Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 19:36:32 +1000 >From: "Scott Jackson" <ScottWayneJackson@hotmail.com> >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > >Yes! Please sell one to Stephen ............. > > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "gordon stelter" <lclgcnp@yahoo.com> >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> >Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2003 2:03 AM >Subject: RE: looking to replace my upright... > >| I still have couple of big, partially restored Knabes >| from the 1890's I'd sell "reasonable". I really don't >| think you can get a bigger sound in an upright than >| from these! >| Thump > >Subject: Re: looking to replace my upright... >Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 08:15:33 -0400 >From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > >".....living with my parents at this time and they don't have room for another grand." > >So, there is a grand piano in your home? > >And does it have "a good responsive action, that allows for fairly fast playing, and good dynamic control, and a good, full, rich, brilliant tone, abundant in higher harmonics, all the way from A0 to C8, especially on FF passages, but not harsh"? > >If so, why not play that piano - even if it is not a "9 foot piano", and "even if it was not a Steinway"? > >Terry Farrell > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Stephen Airy" <stephenairy@fastmail.fm> >To: "Piano Tech list - PTG" <pianotech@ptg.org> >Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2003 3:50 AM >Subject: RE: looking to replace my upright... > > > >> I did a little bit of thinking the last couple days on this subject. I'm >> thinking that maybe I should use my current upright to learn how to hang >> hammers and regulate an action (and maybe also replace whippens, hammer >> butts, or a few other things, but I haven't decided yet). So... I'm >> temporarily taking myself off the market for a piano, at least for the >> time being. However, I am thinking about waiting a while, and saving up >> some money. >> >> I suppose I could plod along with my current piano, but when I am ready >> to upgrade, does anyone have any suggestions on what to get? I'm >> thinking I would be open to either an upright or a grand, although if I >> got a grand it would have to wait a while before I get one, as I am >> living with my parents at this time and they don't have room for another >> grand. Also, what would be a good price range to look at? I don't need >> any fancy "furniture", but I do want a good responsive action, that >> allows for fairly fast playing, and good dynamic control, and a good, >> full, rich, brilliant tone, abundant in higher harmonics, all the way >> from A0 to C8, especially on FF passages, but not harsh. If I go for a >> grand, I'm thinking at least 6 to 7 foot, but I don't want to spend a lot >> of dinero on a piano, so for me, a new piano from a dealer is out of the >> question, unless I wait a really long time and have >$50,000 to spend on >> a piano. What do you think I should be able to get for, say, $2,500? >> $5,000? $10,000? $20,000? any other price tiers you might suggest >> looking at? Like I said above, I've been thinking that I should probably >> learn some more technical things on my current piano, then after a couple >> years or so, start looking at getting another one. Ultimately, I'd like >> to get a Bosendorfer Imperial, but I would have to save for a >> LLLLOOOOONNNNNGGGGG tttiiimmmeee... and I wouldn't want to stick with my >> current piano for all that time. I would want to have at least one or >> two steps between an old klunker upright and a halfway decent 8-octave >> 9'6" grand. :) Depending on available space and the price, I would be >> willing to get an older rebuilt 9 foot piano, even if it was not a >> Steinway. I played a Knabe 9' grand recently that someone had advertised >> for $8,000, but I don't have the money for that right now, but if I did >> have the money and the space, I'd consider buying it. Unfortunately, >> it's a limited time deal (private seller though) so when I AM able to buy >> something that size for that price, it probably won't be available. :( >> -- >> Stephen Airy >> stephenairy@fastmail.fm >> _______________________________________________ >> pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > >Subject: Re: Disklavier Question >Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 09:34:39 -0400 >From: "Dave Smith" <dsmith941@comcast.net> >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > >Good work Terry. Looking back, I can see that Kevin's advice was the >simplest and the best. I looked at my notes and found that the symptom of >the silent rail being turned as I had suggested is NOT a piano what won't >play. It is an action that won't go back in the piano. I guess you can >call that a piano what won't play also. :) > >Now that you can work on Disklavier's (as well as build your own >soundboards) you are probably ready for the hard questions. Like, 'what is >the meaning of life?" > >Dave Smith >SW FL >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> >Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2003 8:51 PM >Subject: Re: Disklavier Question > > > >> Thanks for all the input. The Quiet-Time feature was an add-on unit. It >was turned on. I pressed the on/off button, and thus turned off the >Quiet-Time unit, and became a hero. Thanks all. It was rough, but I was >tough! ;-) Sorry it wasn't something more complicated!!!!! >> >> Terry Farrell >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Kevin E. Ramsey" <kevin.e.ramsey@cox.net> >> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> >> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 10:05 PM >> Subject: Re: Disklavier Question >> >> >> Hi Terry, >> The first thing that comes to mind is that she probably has the mute >rail engaged. There is a box on the left side of the keybed. It has an >on-off switch, and two knobs, volume and reverb. If she has the silent rail >engaged and the volume pot all the way down, you won't hear anything. >> That's probably whats happening here. There are volume controls for >the speakers on the power supply in between the beams under the piano, which >have to be turned up somewhat for the speakers to work. But as far as >getting the piano to play, if it doesn't, it must be the silent rail is >engaged with the volume off. >> Go out there, take your cell phone. If you run into trouble you can call >Yamaha at (800) 854-1569,, then 2,,then 2 to get right in to the support. >They'll trouble shoot it with you on the line. I wouldn't lose too much >sleep about it, it's probably something that will take you about 5 minutes >to figure out. Let us know what you found, OK? >> Kevin. >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Farrell >> To: pianotech@ptg.org >> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 6:55 PM >> Subject: Disklavier Question >> >> >> I am stopping by a client's home tomorrow to look at her Yammy grand >with a Disklavier. I told her I only know a VERY little about them, but she >wants me to at least look at it (heck, maybe I'll find a cord not plugged >in!). She says the piano has been set up for two years, but only recently >she tried using it. She says the keys go up and down when she turns a disk >on, but the piano makes no noise (no music). She thinks it has the Quiet >Time feature (which I know almost nothing about). >> >> Anyone care to throw out a few things to look at? Thanks for any crumbs. >> >> Again, I know almost nothing about these things (give me an hour and a >bottle of rum and I MIGHT be able to figure out how to turn it on!). >> >> Terry Farrell >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives >> _______________________________________________ >> pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > >Subject: Re: looking to replace my upright... >Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 10:04:44 -0400 >From: J Patrick Draine <draine@comcast.net> >To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> > > >On Sunday, July 20, 2003, at 03:50 AM, Stephen Airy wrote: > >> I did a little bit of thinking the last couple days on this subject. >> I'm >> thinking that maybe I should use my current upright to learn how to >> hang >> hammers and regulate an action (and maybe also replace whippens, >> hammer >> butts, or a few other things, but I haven't decided yet). > >Yep, stop thinking so much! Get yourself a good set of hammers, butts, >and shanks, and get to work. Perhaps you should buy or borrow a hammer >hanging jig, and certainly read relevant articles on the procedure >(such as the one in Don Valley's series of articles "Behold the >Upright!"). > >Patrick > > >Subject: Re: Flange Center Friction Increase >Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 10:49:04 -0600 >From: Chris Gregg <cdgregg@telus.net> >To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> > >I have a Samick grand action on my bench right now. The problem I thought >was sticking jacks, but on further investigation, the problem was the >flange on the top of the repetition post. The repetition was not returning >and therefore the jack was sticking on the knuckle. I punched out the pin >and noticed a residue on it, so then I punched out the bushing cloth to see >what the problem really was. The cloth was hard. Too much glue on it, >making the graphite stick to the pin. I re-bushed and re-pinned the >offender, however, I do not see doing this to all the bad ones. I have >re-pinned thousands of Young Chang action centres over the years. I was >led to believe that there was a sizing problem with the action centre cloth >at one time. Rep[inning I can handle, re-bushing is a pain in the you know >what. > >Chris Gregg RPT > > At 07:50 PM 7/20/2003 +1000, you wrote: >>No matter how 'gently' i try, i have never been able to put a cut centre >>pin back in a bushing without knocking out the cloth! I would not >>recommend trying this to anyone (unless they really want practise at >>re-bushing flanges!). >> >>Scott Jackson >>Australia >> >>----- Original Message ----- >>From: "Paul Chick (Earthlink)" <tune4@earthlink.net> >>To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> >>Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2003 10:07 AM >>Subject: RE: Flange Center Friction Increase >> >> >>| Terry >>| Isaac Sadisgursky talked about this in his class on center pins at the >>| Convention. He demonstrated how a center pin can be too tight in the >>| bushing cloth and loose through the wood, just the opposite of what it >>| should be. This problem can be spotted as you describe--fewer swings as you >>| go along. Here's his test: carefully remove the center pin from an >>| offending flange. Gently place it back in the bushed flange and check the >>| friction just by pushing the pin with your fingernail. Now place the same >>| pin in the wood and push it with your fingernail. Chances are you can push >>| it right through the wood. The problem is caused by using the assembly wire >>| used in the flange to size the bushing cloth during manufacturing. When the >>| flange is installed, the worker slides the wire back to clear the other >>| member then slides it through and cuts it to length, fitting done. Isaac >>| says to watch for centers that are clipped on both sides of the flange. >>| This will tell you a wire had been used. He then went on to demonstrate how >>| to repin a set of flanges in about 45 minutes. >>| Paul C >>_______________________________________________ >>pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > http://www.tuneit.ca > > > > >Subject: Re: Flange Center Friction Increase >Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 10:55:06 -0500 >From: "James Grebe" <pianoman@accessus.net> >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > >I wonder since Y-C makes the Essex if this is going to be a problem with >them also? >James Grebe >Piano Tuner-Technician >Wood Artisan >Established 1962 >Creator of Wooden Artifacts such as: >Handsome Hardwood Caster Cups >Handsome Hardwood Piano Benches >314 845-8282 >1526 Raspberry Lane >Arnold, MO 63010 > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Chris Gregg" <cdgregg@telus.net> >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> >Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2003 11:49 AM >Subject: Re: Flange Center Friction Increase > > > >> I have a Samick grand action on my bench right now. The problem I thought >> was sticking jacks, but on further investigation, the problem was the >> flange on the top of the repetition post. The repetition was not returning >> and therefore the jack was sticking on the knuckle. I punched out the pin >> and noticed a residue on it, so then I punched out the bushing cloth to >see >> what the problem really was. The cloth was hard. Too much glue on it, >> making the graphite stick to the pin. I re-bushed and re-pinned the >> offender, however, I do not see doing this to all the bad ones. I have >> re-pinned thousands of Young Chang action centres over the years. I was >> led to believe that there was a sizing problem with the action centre >cloth >> at one time. Rep[inning I can handle, re-bushing is a pain in the you >know >> what. >> >> Chris Gregg RPT >> >> At 07:50 PM 7/20/2003 +1000, you wrote: >> >No matter how 'gently' i try, i have never been able to put a cut centre >> >pin back in a bushing without knocking out the cloth! I would not >> >recommend trying this to anyone (unless they really want practise at >> >re-bushing flanges!). >> > >> >Scott Jackson >> >Australia >> > >> >----- Original Message ----- >> >From: "Paul Chick (Earthlink)" <tune4@earthlink.net> >> >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> >> >Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2003 10:07 AM >> >Subject: RE: Flange Center Friction Increase >> > >> > >> >| Terry >> >| Isaac Sadisgursky talked about this in his class on center pins at the >> >| Convention. He demonstrated how a center pin can be too tight in the >> >| bushing cloth and loose through the wood, just the opposite of what it >> >| should be. This problem can be spotted as you describe--fewer swings >as you >> >| go along. Here's his test: carefully remove the center pin from an >> >| offending flange. Gently place it back in the bushed flange and check >the >> >| friction just by pushing the pin with your fingernail. Now place the >same >> >| pin in the wood and push it with your fingernail. Chances are you can >push >> >| it right through the wood. The problem is caused by using the assembly >wire >> >| used in the flange to size the bushing cloth during manufacturing. >When the >> >| flange is installed, the worker slides the wire back to clear the other >> >| member then slides it through and cuts it to length, fitting done. >Isaac >> >| says to watch for centers that are clipped on both sides of the flange. >> >| This will tell you a wire had been used. He then went on to >demonstrate how >> >| to repin a set of flanges in about 45 minutes. >> >| Paul C >> >_______________________________________________ >> >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives >> >> http://www.tuneit.ca >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > >Subject: Re: soundboardinstal >Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 19:16:24 +0300 >From: "Calin Tantareanu" <dnu@fx.ro> >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > > >> Assuming that you know what you want (including the number and placement >of >> ribs, bridges, and cutoff bar), why you want it, and how to calculate it, > >How would one calculate a soundboard & ribs? >I have always wondered about this. > > > > Calin Tantareanu >---------------------------------------------------- > http://calintantareanu.tripod.com >---------------------------------------------------- > > > > >Subject: Re: soundboardinstal >Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 12:17:20 -0500 >From: Ron Nossaman <RNossaman@cox.net> >To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> > > >>How would one calculate a soundboard & ribs? >>I have always wondered about this. >> >> Calin Tantareanu > >I don't know what anyone else does, but I do a load analysis of the rib set >from the new string scale. Downbearing loads on each rib are used to >calculate deflection, and the ribs are sized to give me the deflection >ranges I want through each section of the scale. > >Ron N > > __________________________________________________________________ McAfee VirusScan Online from the Netscape Network. Comprehensive protection for your entire computer. Get your free trial today! http://channels.netscape.com/ns/computing/mcafee/index.jsp?promo=393397 Get AOL Instant Messenger 5.1 free of charge. Download Now! http://aim.aol.com/aimnew/Aim/register.adp?promo=380455 _______________________________________________ pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
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