I find it's best to glue hammers on based on the strike point. Check to see that the action is in the position you want it and determine the optimum strike point with the hammers that are in there by moving the action in and out. It is most critical in the capo sections. The tenor and bass sections are not sensitive to changes in the same way. Glue at 130 mm unless you need to move it in a little to get the strike point right--it is rare that you will have to glue the hammers farther out on the shank. My experience with those pianos is that they usually got the strike point right so if it's off a bit from the standard 130 mm, you are better off matching it. David Love davidlovepianos@earthlink.net ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Hull To: pianotech@ptg.org Sent: 7/28/2003 5:18:10 PM Subject: Hamburg distance spec. Does the New York Steinway specification of 5 1/8 " from hammer flange center pin to center of hammer molding apply to Hamburg as well? I am replacing hammers on a Hamburg D. The old (or present set of hammers) distance is 5 1/16 or a tiny bit more on all but one of the sample hammers (ends of sections). One is glued on at 5 1/8 (hammer #1) They probably use a mm. spec rather than inches.? Also, the new hammers I ordered from S&S specifically for the Hamburg sure are a lot wider and they are hornbeam instead of mahagony like the old ones. I will taper these to try to match weight. Your help is appreciated. Bob Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
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