Viennese Grand Action Regulation

Delwin D Fandrich pianobuilders@olynet.com
Thu, 5 Jun 2003 09:49:24 -0700


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  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Piannaman@aol.com=20
  To: pianotech@ptg.org=20
  Sent: June 05, 2003 6:58 AM
  Subject: Re: Viennese Grand Action Regulation


  In a message dated 6/4/03 11:16:57 PM Pacific Daylight Time, =
pianobuilders@olynet.com writes:=20



    I'm sure the restorers among us won't approve but the last one we =
did got a new keyset and Renner action stack. The owner is thrilled with =
his "new" piano.=20




  Del,=20

  I figured this thread would get intertwined..._:-)  =20

  I thought about what it would cost to replace the stack.  Any ideas on =
that?  I'd like to have an idea, because I think the noisiness in the =
mechanism will eventually bother the owner, and if replacing the old =
action with a more efficient one is within her budget, I will suggest it =
as a possibility.  Offline answers might be appropriate here.=20

It depends. I don't remember enough of the details of that specific =
piano and action combination to give you an exact amount but...
In general, if the key length from the back key offset to the tail of =
the key is perpendicular to the strikeline it's not so bad. Occasionally =
you can use the existing rails with some minor modifications. Or, =
failing that, new rails can sometimes be made to fit existing brackets.=20

Don't discount original wood action brackets--I've reused them several =
times with good success. If you're concerned about stability soak them =
in coating epoxy for a few minutes and hang them out to cure. They will =
be as stable as metal brackets and will still be better at absorbing all =
that action noise. Once I had to make a set of wood brackets because =
nothing available from the action makers would fit. Delignit bridge cap =
stock works really well. Or you can make your own maple laminate.

If the original brackets can be used with either modified or new rails =
then it is simply a matter of working out the geometry. It helps to have =
a full-size drawing or a model of the action you're going to use. You'll =
need to make a drilling pattern (strips of Mylar work well) to drill the =
wippen rail, the hammershank rail and the jack letoff screw rail. Then =
you'll need to assemble the whole thing. The amount of time all of this =
will take depends on your experience and ingenuity. You will also have =
to locate and drill for new capstans. And install them. All of this can =
range anywhere from eight to twelve hours at the low end to several days =
if you have to get into patching up some wood brackets. (This is over =
and above the amount of time it would normally take you to replace =
wippens and shanks on an existing, modern, action stack.)=20

If all new metal brackets and rails are required the time requirement =
goes up. Now new keyframe bracket spacers and vertical action spacing =
become an issue. You'll also have to locate the brackets, drill the =
rails for bracket screws and assemble the whole thing. Depending on the =
type of wippen used you may also have to locate and install posts for a =
hammershank bounce rail. Add in a few more hours.=20

One good thing, with conversions like this backchecks generally do not =
have to be relocated.

Now comes the tough part. If the tail end of the keys is not =
perpendicular to the strikeline you will generally have to replace the =
keyset. First you will have to design the new keys starting from the =
strike line moving down to a capstan back through the balance rail pins =
and up to the key headscale. The problem here is that the capstan =
locations will be changing. Then raw keyframes require a lot of prep =
work to fit into an existing action cavity. And that is way beyond =
anything I want to write about here. If memory serves the last new =
action and keyset we did ran the customer about $9,500 (including all =
parts, materials and labor and keeping in mind that I don't do the =
billing) by the time we were through. Some are easier than others =
depending on how the whole thing fits into the cavity.=20

As well, with most all jobs of this type the damper stack will be =
replaced. Most often this is pretty straight forward. Drilling will be =
changed from the original but you can use the same drilling pattern you =
used for the action rails.

Del

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