Stienway sustenuto bar

[Keith Roberts]

I think soft soldering is better. Use some rosin core solder for electrical
stuff as it doesn't use an acid based flux and you won't have the thing turn
green on you. Del said hard solder but I think he meant the soft wire solder
for copper water pipe etc. Silver solder and brazing temperatures run over
1000 degrees F which is almost the melting point of the brass. If you can
find some old 50/50 solder, it melts around 600 degrees. The silver based
soft solders for water tube melt around 700. If you happen to not get it in
exactly the right place, it melts easily. A large soldering gun or an old
time big soldering iron will do the job. Even you heat gun if it throws out
850 degrees. No sense laying a torch on it.
Keith Roberts
----- Original Message -----
From: "Delwin D Fandrich" <pianobuilders@olynet.com>
To: <billpillmore@earthlink.net>; "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2003 9:52 AM
Subject: Re: Stienway sustenuto bar


>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Pillmore" <billpillmore@earthlink.net>
> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: June 05, 2003 6:22 AM
> Subject: Stienway sustenuto bar
>
>
> > Does anyone know the best way to reattach the wire loop where the monkey
> > hooks to the sustenuto bar.  The holes have wallowed out and the wire
> > won't stay in.  Do I need to have it brazes?
> > Thanks Bill Pillmore
>
>
> That, or you try hard soldering it. Not quite as strong a joint as brazing
> but usually strong enough.
>
> Del
>
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