False Beats in high treble after stringing

Greg Newell gnewell@ameritech.net
Tue, 10 Jun 2003 23:48:47 -0400


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Good tip Alan and thanks for the posts everyone. Some go0od info here.

Greg



At 11:06 PM 6/10/2003, you wrote:

>WARNING: Don't boil the epoxy! A Heat gun can EASILY do this. If it
>bubbles, it is ruined and will not set up right. At least that is true
>with some epoxies, so I would assume it would be true of them all and
>proceed carefully.
>
>Alan R. Barnard
>Salem, MO
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On
>Behalf Of Joe And Penny Goss
>Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 9:24 PM
>To: Pianotech
>Subject: Re: False Beats in high treble after stringing
>
>Greg,
>The hardening comes after the two are mixed. Mixing them produces a heat
>that in itself thins the epoxy.
>Adding more heat further thins the epoxy mix and most likely speeds up
>the
>cure rate when it cools.
>I also think it may tend to mix the two components together
>better. Don't know for sure, just my thinkin on it.
>Joe Goss
>imatunr@srvinet.com
>www.mothergoosetools.com
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Greg Newell" <gnewell@ameritech.net>
>To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
>Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 7:36 PM
>Subject: Re: False Beats in high treble after stringing
>
>
>
>O.K. this is something I've been confused about for some time now. I
>thought that the chemical reaction between the two components of epoxy
>were
>what caused heat and therefore the curing or hardening process. If you
>heat
>with a hair drier or heat gun how does the epoxy thin and not harden? I
>believe you, I just don't know how this is possible. Is there a
>different
>way to mix the epoxy or a different product to buy?
>
>Greg
>
>
>
>
>
>At 04:34 PM 6/10/2003, you wrote:
>
> >Did you epoxy all of them, or just those that seemed to be loose? When
>you
> >epoxy or CA bridge pins like this, you need to do them all, and
> >thoroughly. You need enough epoxy to soak into the bridge cap and fill
>the
> >gap between pin and cap. The bottom of the pin isn't terribly
>important,
> >just the part where the pin enters the cap - where the string is.
> >Otherwise, the "still tight" pins will prove to be loose enough to
>produce
> >false beats with the nice new strings. The "best results for the work"
>way
> >to approach this is to pull all the pins, clean up the notches with a
> >chisel, and epoxy in new pins. The "least work for the results" method
>for
> >old uprights that need more work than they are going to ever get is to
> >apply epoxy around each original bridge pin and heat it with a hair
>drier
> >or heat gun so the epoxy thins and wicks down into the hole around the
>pin
> >- or use CA, also with the original pins in place.
> >Ron N
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> >
>
>Greg Newell
>Greg's piano Fort=E9
>mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
>
>
>
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>
> > _______________________________________________
> > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> >
>
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Greg Newell
Greg's piano Fort=E9
mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net=20

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