---------------------- multipart/mixed attachment Good tip Alan and thanks for the posts everyone. Some go0od info here. Greg At 11:06 PM 6/10/2003, you wrote: >WARNING: Don't boil the epoxy! A Heat gun can EASILY do this. If it >bubbles, it is ruined and will not set up right. At least that is true >with some epoxies, so I would assume it would be true of them all and >proceed carefully. > >Alan R. Barnard >Salem, MO > >-----Original Message----- >From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On >Behalf Of Joe And Penny Goss >Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 9:24 PM >To: Pianotech >Subject: Re: False Beats in high treble after stringing > >Greg, >The hardening comes after the two are mixed. Mixing them produces a heat >that in itself thins the epoxy. >Adding more heat further thins the epoxy mix and most likely speeds up >the >cure rate when it cools. >I also think it may tend to mix the two components together >better. Don't know for sure, just my thinkin on it. >Joe Goss >imatunr@srvinet.com >www.mothergoosetools.com >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Greg Newell" <gnewell@ameritech.net> >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> >Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 7:36 PM >Subject: Re: False Beats in high treble after stringing > > > >O.K. this is something I've been confused about for some time now. I >thought that the chemical reaction between the two components of epoxy >were >what caused heat and therefore the curing or hardening process. If you >heat >with a hair drier or heat gun how does the epoxy thin and not harden? I >believe you, I just don't know how this is possible. Is there a >different >way to mix the epoxy or a different product to buy? > >Greg > > > > > >At 04:34 PM 6/10/2003, you wrote: > > >Did you epoxy all of them, or just those that seemed to be loose? When >you > >epoxy or CA bridge pins like this, you need to do them all, and > >thoroughly. You need enough epoxy to soak into the bridge cap and fill >the > >gap between pin and cap. The bottom of the pin isn't terribly >important, > >just the part where the pin enters the cap - where the string is. > >Otherwise, the "still tight" pins will prove to be loose enough to >produce > >false beats with the nice new strings. The "best results for the work" >way > >to approach this is to pull all the pins, clean up the notches with a > >chisel, and epoxy in new pins. The "least work for the results" method >for > >old uprights that need more work than they are going to ever get is to > >apply epoxy around each original bridge pin and heat it with a hair >drier > >or heat gun so the epoxy thins and wicks down into the hole around the >pin > >- or use CA, also with the original pins in place. > >Ron N > > > >_______________________________________________ > >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > > >Greg Newell >Greg's piano Fort=E9 >mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net > > > >------------------------------------------------------------------------ >---- >---- > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > > >_______________________________________________ >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > >--- >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). >Version: 6.0.488 / Virus Database: 287 - Release Date: 6/5/2003 > > >--- >Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). >Version: 6.0.488 / Virus Database: 287 - Release Date: 6/5/2003 > > >_______________________________________________ >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives Greg Newell Greg's piano Fort=E9 mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net=20 ---------------------- multipart/mixed attachment--
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