Epoxy on boards

[gordon stelter]

Thanks Del! I do hope you will try the Epotek 301,
though. It has a truly watery consistency which, of
course, flows out beautifully. It's crystal-clear, and
I would be interested in your opinion, in terms of
comparison, of an epoxy which might permeate the baord
just a wee bit more. And, do you think this would be
useful in maintaining crown if it were allowed to cure
while the board were in an artificially flexed state,
and would that be beneficial?
     ( Sorry-I intend to read your articles very soon
and not ask any more stupid questions.)
     Respectfully,
     Gordon

--- Delwin D Fandrich <pianobuilders@olynet.com>
wrote:
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "gordon stelter" <lclgcnp@yahoo.com>
> To: <davidlovepianos@earthlink.net>; "Pianotech"
> <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: March 01, 2003 8:11 PM
> Subject: Re: System Three Varnish
> 
> 
> >      HOWEVER, I would still prefer a finish which
> > will, in my opinion, carry the vibrations away
> from
> > the bridge rapidly while absorbing them least, to
> > excite every portion of the board.
> 
> Well, ok. But that's not how soundboards work.
> 
> 
> >
> > And one which
> > really seals the board against humidity, as much
> as
> > possible.
> 
> Have you tested your finish of choice as a vapor
> barrier? Of those we tested
> way back when only epoxy showed any real promise as
> a viable vapor barrier
> and then only when used in obscene thicknesses:
> three to four plus coats
> totalling close to 1 mm or better in film thickness.
> Nothing else performed
> any better than the material the company was already
> using (some kind of
> conversion varnish).
> 
> 
> 
> > But, if you are trying to create rigidity,
> > would you not want the stiffest (when cured) and
> least
> > viscous epoxy you can find, as long as it is not
> thin
> > due to solvent thinners? And isn't Epotek 301 the
> best
> > by this criteria? Wouldn't you want it to permeate
> the
> > board as much as possible? I'm sorry to say that I
> > have not read your articles yet.But I will, ASAP.
> 
> I considered Epotek but was unable to get much
> information from the company
> about their product. Since it is apparently
> formulated primarily as an
> optical grade material I had some reservations about
> its use in my process.
> I was unable to get samples to test at the time. No,
> I didn't want it to
> permeate the board as much as possible. I wanted it
> to remain a coating in
> matrix with the surface. And this is what the
> epoxies listed in the article
> all do.
> 
> I spent several hours today listening to the most
> recent piano we've done
> with this process--a Bush & Lane 5' 9" grand--and am
> quite happy with the
> results. The sound of this piano now compares
> favorably with any new grand
> piano of similar size--indeed, I'd happily compare
> it to a new 5' 10 1/2"
> grand of well-known manufacture. Yes, the piano has
> been rescaled and the
> bass bridge has been modified to shorten the
> speaking length and increase
> the backscale length, but the board is original and
> the design is otherwise
> fairly conventional for a grand from the early 20th
> century. My remaining
> question is longevity. And I suspect that is going
> to be tied to the UV
> blocking characteristic of the finish material used
> to coat the epoxy. On
> this board we used a good quality marine varnish.
> And we did rub it out
> after it had dried for about two weeks.
> 
> Del
> 
> _______________________________________________
> pianotech list info:
https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives


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