----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Nossaman" <RNossaman@cox.net> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: March 08, 2003 11:22 AM Subject: Re: Epoxy Man Strikes Again > > >My first bridge that I will be gluing on has rib spacing varying from > >about six inches to three inches apart. My understanding is that you > >suggest that one screw/button placed every three to six inches (mid way > >between each rib) along the bridge will provide sufficient clamping for a > >Tightbond joint? > > Yes, it always has. Ditto. > > >Might the fearful feel better if a larger block of wood is used > >temporarily instead of a button? > > You can if you like, but it won't measurably improve the joint. Truly, it > works just like we said, and produces a joint that far exceeds the minimum > physical requirements for that joint. I've considered this but only because the buttons sometimes break. You'll get quite an adequate joint with just the buttons. > > >With your process do you see good glue squeeze-out mid-way between screws > >(as in on the top side of the board at rib locations)? > > Yep. You know the bridge isn't going to deflect much in that 6" span, and > that 8mm spruce panel isn't going to let the resistance offered by a small > pool of Titebond bend it enough to spoil the joint either. Not by a long > shot. Yup. > > >Maybe part of my problem is I am imagining this floppy panel - but I > >suppose it won't be so floppy after ribs are attached. > > Yes, the ribs make it stiffer in the direction in which it was floppy, and > in the other direction, it never was floppy enough to be a problem. Wave > that panel around some after you get the ribs on. Pound on it. Push on it. > Try to bend it (careful of the edges, and don't dent it up). Marvel at how > something that relatively light can be that stiff. That thing becomes it's > own clamping caul. Yup. Del
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